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27th April Restaurant Reviews

The Telegraph Restaurant Reviews

Zoe Williams Restaurant Review
Name: Lakelands First Floor Cafe, Lakeland Limited, Alexandra Buildings, Windemere - Tel: 01539 447116
Review:
The banana cake had flavour but was dry; the choc was moist, all right, but it had a shop-bought texture that I've read comes from adding tapioca flour to the mix. Hey. It tasted good..says Zoe Williams
Website: http://www.lakeland.co.uk/
Score: 6/10

Jasper Gerard Restaurant Review
Name: Gordon Ramsay Plane Food at Heathrow Airport, Terminal 5 (airside), Heathrow - Tel: 020 8897 4545
Review:
Whether dining or enjoying a pre-flight snifter loitering languorously at the bar, you will leave here in cheerful holiday mood....says Jasper Gerard
Website: http://www.gordonramsay.com/planefood/
Score: 7/10

Belinda Richardson Restaurants Reviews:
Name:
Three of a kind
Review:
Belinda Richardson goes in search of 'fives'.


The Independent Restaurant Reviews

Terry Durack Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Restaurant Hélène Darroze, 4 Rue d'Assas, Paris, tel: 00 33 1 4222 0011
Review:
It has been a genuinely dazzling meal, taken in high comfort, at very high prices. Darroze will bring something new to London, with her particular combination of rustic lavishness. Apart from the foie gras issue, she may well find us more welcoming than Paris..say Terry Durack
Website:
http://www.relaischateaux.com/darroze
Score: 18/20

Tracey MacLeod Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Café Boheme, Old Compton Street, , London W1 - Tel - 020 7734 0623
Review: My coq au vin consisted of, I swear, at least half a chicken, or perhaps cockerel; leg, breast, wing – as I rummaged downwards in the bowl I was convinced I'd eventually...says Tracey MacLeod
Website: http://www.cafeboheme.co.uk


The Observer Restaurant Reviews

Jay Rayner Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Artizan, 22 The Weir, Hull - Tel: 01482 644 906
Review:
On top of that a tranche of smoked haddock that fell apart easily into salty, ripe flakes with just a nudge. Finally, on top of that, a perfectly poached egg. So yes, food as tower, but it made sense. All the various parts needed to collapse into one another....says Jay Rayner
Website:


Matthew Norman Restaurant Reviews:
Name:
Review: No Review this week
....says Matthew Norman
Website:

Score: -

The Sunday Times Restaurant Reviews

AA Gill Restaurant Reviews:
Name: 3* No Review this week

Review: ..says AA Gill
Website:

Alex James Restaurant Review
Name: 2* Cafe Boheme, 13 Old Compton Street, London W1 - Tel: 020 7734 0623
Review: When my companion’s mussels arrived, their smell lit up the table. The casserole dish they arrived in had a certain glamour of its own, and there were plenty of them inside. She was happy, so I....says Alex James
Website: http://www.cafeboheme.co.uk

Michael Winner - Winners Dinners Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Carluccio's & Gordon Ramsay Plane Food @ T5, Terminal 5, Heathrow
Review:

Carluccio's - My only course was tortelloni di cervo, handmade pasta filled with wine-braised venison. It was very good indeed. Geraldine had a large “antipasto di verdure” and declared it terrific. So I can’t blast Carluccio’s....says Michael Winner
Gordon Ramsay PLane Food - I started with a salad of watermelon and feta with toasted pumpkin seeds and lime vinaigrette. Very tasty. I loved it. Then braised lamb with honey and cloves, grain mustard mash. Tiptop. With some rather lukewarm and dreary buttered spinach. The handmade chips were excellent..says Michael Winner
Website:
http://www.gordonramsay.com/planefood/
http://www.carluccios.com/


Giles Coren Restaurant Reviews:
Name:
  1. The Crab at Chieveley, Chieveley, Berkshire - Tel: 01635 247550
  2. The Old House at Home, Newham Green, Hook, Hampshire - Tel: 01256 762222
  3. Osteria Stecca, 1 Blenheim Terrace, London NW8 - Tel: 0207 328 5014
  4. Cruse9, 62-63 Halliford Street, London N1 - Tel: 0207 354 8099
Review: Now, this is what I call a restaurant review. You’re always banging on about how I never get out of London (actually, you’re not, it’s just a little voice in my head that gives me grief about it,...says Giles Coren
Website:
http://www.crabatchieveley.com/
http://www.osteriastecca.com/
http://www.cruse9.com/
Score: all got 6/10

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20th April Restaurant Reviews

The Telegraph Restaurant Reviews

Zoe Williams Restaurant Review
Name: Lucy's on a Plate, Church Street, Ambleside, Cumbria - Tel: 01539 431191
Review:
It wasn't horrible, just strange and unexpected. Overall, the meal was now of an average standard - if you chanced..says Zoe Williams
Website: http://www.lucysofambleside.co.uk/
Score: 4/10

Jasper Gerard Restaurant Review
Name: The Whitstable Oyster Fishery Company, The Royal Native Oyster Stores, Horsebridge, Kent - Tel: 01227 276856
Review:
Have the proprietors ever eaten in a top modern restaurant? If so, they have learnt nothing. So the Fishery sails serenely on a reputation earned while riding....says Jasper Gerard
Website: www.oysterfishery.co.uk
Score: 3/10

Belinda Richardson Restaurants Reviews:
Name:
Three of a kind
Review:
Belinda Richardson is back on the beach


The Independent Restaurant Reviews

Terry Durack Restaurant Reviews:
Name: D.Sum², 14 Paternoster Row, London EC4 - Tel: 020 7248 2288
Review:
Then, heavens to Betsy, I strike it rich with a platter of baby pak-choi cabbages the size of my little finger, sensitively cooked and topped with crisp fried garlic..say Terry Durack
Website:

Score: 8/20

John Walsh Restaurant Reviews:
Name: The Mercer, Threadneedle Street, London EC2 - Tel: 020 7628 0001
Review:
We ended up as the last customers in the house, working our way through the superfluous (but immaculate) desserts and petit fours while the manager chatted to us...says John Walsh
Website: http://www.themercer.co.uk/


The Observer Restaurant Reviews

Jay Rayner Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Cruse, 62-63 Halliford Street, London N1 - Tel: 020 7354 8099
Review:
It's not cheap, but then this is Islington, where even being poor is expensive. But it is accomplished, and the two chaps in charge, who probably bonded over the male-pattern baldness they knew lay in their future...says Jay Rayner
Website:


Matthew Norman Restaurant Reviews:
Name: The Horn of Plenty, Gulworthy, Tavistock, Devon - Tel: 01822 832528
Review:
The Horn Of Plenty in bucolic Devon takes care to avoid testes and ostentatiously murderous staff; only the last point concerns us today because, while its cook Peter Gorton does consistently splendid things with first-class..says Matthew Norman
Website:
http://www.thehornofplenty.co.uk/
Score: - 6.25/10

The Sunday Times Restaurant Reviews

AA Gill Restaurant Reviews:
Name: 3* No Review this week

Review: ..says AA Gill
Website:

Kate Spicer Restaurant Review
Name: 4* L'Autre Pied, 5-7 Blandford Street, London W1 - Tel: 020 7486 9696
Review: But humbugging aside, back to the main course: I selflessly allowed the powder hound to order the veal, while I had a confit of salmon, which was meltingly sweet and soft, with a gentle horseradish velouté and cauliflower cream..says Kate Spicer
Website: http://www.lautrepied.co.uk

Michael Winner - Winners Dinners Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Mr Chow, 151 Knightsbridge, London SW1 - Tel: 0207 589 7347
Review:
The service was fast beyond belief, just as I like it. Suddenly there were braised prawns with walnuts, sea bass, “velvet chicken”, seaweed, chopped chicken with lettuce and squab, beans, mixed dumplings, rice-paper-wrapped prawns...says Michael Winner
Website: http://www.mrchow.com/therestaurants/london/

Giles Coren Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Bildeston Crown, Suffolk, Tel: 01449 740510
Review: I can’t believe it, I’ve happened on the best little progressive kitchen in Suffolk, and then I’ve skipped the starters and had a bit of roast beef and a single gnoccho. To review it properly, I’d have to come again, but I won’t have a chance to get out this way for ages, so you’ll just have to take my word that it’s probably absolutely magnificent...says Giles Coren
Website: http://www.thebildestoncrown.com/
Score: 9/10

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13th April Restaurant Reviews

The Telegraph Restaurant Reviews

Zoe Williams Restaurant Review
Name: Bord'eaux, Grosvenor House, Park Lane, London W1 - Tel: 020 7399 8460
Review:
Oh, you things of beauty, you puds! I had the lemon tart (£6.50), which was excellent, but if a restaurant called Bord'eaux can't do a tarte au citron, you take it back to the charity shop where you found the pony that couldn't do any tricks..says Zoe Williams
Website: http://www.marriott.co.uk
Score: 6.5/10

Jasper Gerard Restaurant Review
Name: Launceston Place, 1a Launceston Place, London W8 - Tel: 020 7937 6912
Review:
Have the proprietors ever eaten in a top modern restaurant? If so, they have learnt nothing. So the Fishery sails serenely on a reputation earned while riding....says Jasper Gerard
Website: www.launcestonplace-restaurant.co.uk
Score: 7/10

Belinda Richardson Restaurants Reviews:
Name:
Three of a kind
Review:
Belinda Richardson goes in search of the place to be


The Independent Restaurant Reviews

Terry Durack Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Daylesford Organic, 44b Pimlico Road, London - Tel: 020 7881 8060
Review:
Daylesford Organic could lead the way to a future when every high street has its farm shop, selling directly from the land to consumers, reducing food miles..say Terry Durack
Website:
http://www.daylesfordorganic.com/
Score: 13/20

Tracey MacLeod Restaurant Reviews:
Name: The Greenhouse, 27a Hays Mews, London W1 - Tel: 020 7499 3331
Review:
We ended up as the last customers in the house, working our way through the superfluous (but immaculate) desserts and petit fours while the manager chatted to us...says Tracey Macleod
Website: http://www.greenhouserestaurant.co.uk


The Observer Restaurant Reviews

Jay Rayner Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Martha & Vincent, 39 The Grove, Ilkley, West Yorkshire - Tel: 01943 602 444
Review:
Martha is the patron saint of cooks, Vincent the patron saint of winemakers. Such naming suggests a devotion to the eternal verities...says Jay Rayner
Website:
http://www.marthaandvincent.com/

Matthew Norman Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Goldfish, 82 Hampstead High Street, London NW3 - Tel: 020 7794 6666
Review:
Puddings, especially a spectacular Valrhona chocolate mousse with caramel foam and cashew ice cream, were a joy to both eye and tastebud, and the petits fours served with coffee were enchanting.. ..says Matthew Norman
Website:

Score: - 9.95/10

The Sunday Times Restaurant Reviews

AA Gill Restaurant Reviews:
Name: 3* The Grill at Browns Hotel, 30 Albermarle Street, London W1 - Tel: 020 7493 6020

Review: This is the grub of hard times, of a depression and rationing, of an island stoically making do with joshing banter..says AA Gill
Website: http://www.brownshotel.com/dining/

Michael Winner - Winners Dinners Restaurant Reviews:
Name: The Shellbourne Hotel, & The Saddle Room, 27 Ste Stephen's Green, Dublin, Ireland - Tel: 00353 1 6634500
Review:
It was all very good, simple food. The chef, John Mooney, is not going for an A-level in plate decoration...says Michael Winner
Website: The Shelbourne Hotel | The Saddle Room

Giles Coren Restaurant Reviews:
Name:
The Brudenell, The Parade, Aldeburgh - Tel: 01728 452071
The Golden Galleon, 137 High Street, Aldeburgh - Tel: 01728 454685

Review:
People had been talking about Café Boheme for a couple of weeks and for some reason I thought Jones had just bought it. As it turns out, he’s had it for ever, but has recently done it up into more of a classic brasserie..says Giles Coren
Website:
http://www.brudenellhotel.co.uk
Score: Brudenell - 6.75/10 / Golden Galleon - 7.66/10

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7th April Restaurant Reviews

The Telegraph Restaurant Reviews

Zoe Williams Restaurant Review
Name: The Dining Room at the Railway Hotel. Preston Street, Faversham, Kent - Tel: 01895 533173
Review:
It gave the mousse this amazing vegetal back-taste, which cut through the chocolate, gave it complexity without ruining its richness. I can honestly see this taking off, if only there weren't just two people in the country who knew how to find hogweed..says Zoe Williams
Website: http://www.railwayhotelfaversham.co.uk
Score: 8/10

Jasper Gerard Restaurant Review
Name: Gordon Ramsay au Trianon, Trianon Palace & Spa, 1 Boulevard de la Reine, Versailles, 0033 130 845555
Review:
And despite the French critics, Ramsay is surely being better received than the last British cooks here. When Lloyd George banned French toilers from the hotel of the British delegation, fearing they were spying, he shipped in replacement cooks from a Midlands station hotel, with predictably hard-boiled results....says Jasper Gerard
Website: http://www.gordonramsay.com/grautrianon/
Score: 7/10

Belinda Richardson Restaurants Reviews:
Name:
Three of a kind
Review:
Belinda Richardson goes in search of a leafy suburbia


The Independent Restaurant Reviews

Terry Durack Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Launceston Place, 1a Launceston Place, London W1 - Tel: 020 7937 6912
Review:
The main courses are a step down in excitement. Veal – which I will only order if, like this, it is English – is a pleasant, conservative dish, the rump sliced over a warm potato salad with attendant puddles of sweet shallot foam, and lush, paper-thin leaves of tongue. A rich cherry-berry 2005 Sarrazin Givry (£38) from the predictably refined list fits it nicely...say Terry Durack
Website:
http://www.danddlondon.com/restaurants/launceston_place/home
Score: 16/20

John Walsh Restaurant Reviews:
Name: The Loft, Clapham High Street, London SW4 - Tel: 020 7627 0792
Review:
My pudding panna cotta, surrounded by a satellite of port-poached baby figs, looked lovely but confirmed my suspicion that the seedy, grainy essence of figs doesn't suit creamy milk pudding; it cried out for raspberries......says John Walsh
Website: http://www.theloft-clapham.co.uk/


The Observer Restaurant Reviews

Jay Rayner Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Abracadabra, 91 Jermyn Street, London SW1 - Tel: 020 7930 3222
Review:
To give credit, Mark's duck breast is fine, but everything else has been tortured in the kitchen. 'The pak choi is overcooked to a point my mother might approve of,' Mark says. He's a Yorkshireman....says Jay Rayner
Website:


Matthew Norman Restaurant Reviews:
Name: L'Autre, 5-7 Blandford Street, London W1 - Tel: 020 7486 9696
Review:
Puddings, especially a spectacular Valrhona chocolate mousse with caramel foam and cashew ice cream, were a joy to both eye and tastebud, and the petits fours served with coffee were enchanting.. ..says Matthew Norman
Website:
http://www.lautrepied.co.uk
Score: - 7/10

The Sunday Times Restaurant Reviews

AA Gill Restaurant Reviews:
Name: 2* Launceston Place, London W8 - Tel: 020 7937 6912

Review: Launceston Place is a burp from the grave. It’s a waste of the customer’s time, expectations and, at about £50 a head, money ..says AA Gill
Website: http://www.danddlondon.com/restaurants/launceston_place/home

Michael Winner - Winners Dinners Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Michael reviews the restaurants of Deia in Spain.
Review:
I really should advise you to stay at La Residencia (more of that another day) and enjoy Deia, the foodie heaven. But it’s unspoilt, even having had me loitering. So, please, stay away...says Michael Winner
Website:

Giles Coren Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Cafe Boheme, 13-17 Old Compton Street, London W1 - Tel: 020 7734 0623
Review:
People had been talking about Café Boheme for a couple of weeks and for some reason I thought Jones had just bought it. As it turns out, he’s had it for ever, but has recently done it up into more of a classic brasserie..says Giles Coren
Website: http://www.cafeboheme.co.uk/
Score: 6.75/10

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30th March Restaurant Reviews

The Telegraph Restaurant Reviews

Zoe Williams Restaurant Review
Name: Goodfellows, 5 Sadler Street, London W1 - Tel: 0870 777 4488
Review:
This place is fine, but it's uptight and a bit sensitive. I know it sounds like I've taken leave of my senses, but I came away feeling like someone in the kitchen needs to get laid....says Zoe Williams
Website:
Score: 6/10

Jasper Gerard Restaurant Review
Name: The Kingham Plough, Kingham, Chipping Norton, Oxfordshire - Tel: 01608 658327
Review:
We finish sweetly on pear tart with pear and walnut ice cream: one of the best ways I've discovered to blow a fiver and remain legal. Not quite perfect, the Plough, but this is one classy pub....says Jasper Gerard
Website: www.thekinghamplough.co.uk
Score: 7/10

Belinda Richardson Restaurants Reviews:
Name:
Three of a kind
Review:
Belinda Richardson goes in search of the plough factor.


The Independent Restaurant Reviews

Terry Durack Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Bord'eaux, Grosvenor House Hotel, Park Lane, London W1 - Tel: 020 7339 8460
Review:
There are lots of things to like. The excellent breads, complimentary rillettes and beautiful French butter. The lovely crystal decanter that comes when I ask for tap water. The Peugeot salt and pepper grinders...say Terry Durack
Website:
http://www.marriott.co.uk
Score: 13/20

Tracey MacLeod Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Purnell's, 5 Cornwall Street, Birmingham - Tel: 0121 212 9799
Review:
The honeyed subtlety of the Condrieu worked well with some of the more intense flavours of the main courses, and carried us through to the desserts, deep-fried cinnamon ravioli with griottine cherries, and blackberry parfait with apple sorbet, both superb.....says Tracey MacLeod
Website: http://www.purnellsrestaurant.com

Food of the week
Everywhere stops for Tea


The Observer Restaurant Reviews

Jay Rayner Restaurant Reviews:
Name: The Warrington, 93 Warrington Crescent, London W9 - Tel: 020 7592 7960
Review:
o get this right you need a paysanne sensibility combined with bourgeois cooking skills, which is rare. The liquor in a bowl of clams with lardons may have been too salty and intense, but the shellfish were spot on....says Jay Rayner
Website:
The Warrington

Matthew Norman Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Bryce's Fresh Fish Restaurant, Stane Street, Ockley, nr Dorking, Surrey - Tel: 01306 627 430
Review:
Langoustine bisque needed only a dash of brandy to elevate it above the decent; plump, steamed Shetland mussels came in a delicate cream marinade; both oysters and a crab and crayfish cocktail were blameless; and juicy queen scallops were glazed with a fine, perky hollandaise.. ..says Matthew Norman
Website:
http://www.bryces.co.uk/
Score: - 4.75/10

The Sunday Times Restaurant Reviews

AA Gill Restaurant Reviews:
Name: 4* Marco, Stamford Bridge, Fulham Road SW6 - Tel: 020 7915 2929

Review: Does high-end dining have a place in the grounds of Chelsea Football Club, Stamford Bridge, complete with valet parking? ..says AA Gill
Website: http://www.marcorestaurant.co.uk/

Michael Winner - Winners Dinners Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Le Cafe Anglais, 8 Porchester Gardens, London - Tel: 020 7221 1415
Review:
The main course was a disaster. Grilled sardines tasted of cotton wool. The red cabbage was beyond belief ghastly..says Michael Winner
Website: http://www.lecafeanglais.co.uk/

Giles Coren Restaurant Reviews:
Name: The Grill, Browns Hotel, 33 Albermarle Street, London W1 - Tel: 020 7493 6020
Review:
But the top-hatted doorman smiled as he pointed to the dining room. The quite severe-looking, dark-haired receptionist smiled as she showed us to our table, and the head waiter smiled and joshed as he took our order, to such an extent that a slight backwardness in actual knowledge bothered me not a jot. ..says Giles Coren
Website: http://www.brownshotel.com/
Score: 7/10

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23rd March Restaurant Reviews

The Telegraph

Zoe Williams Restaurant Review
Name: The Stapleton Arms, Church Hill, Buckhorn Weston, Dorset - Tel: 01963 370396
Review:
The mash was first rate. The port sauce tasted nice and posh, and wasn't too sweet, and was called a sauce rather than a jus or a reduction, for which you have to give it credit...says Zoe Williams
Website: http://www.thestapletonarms.com/

Jasper Gerard Restaurant Review
Name: Water House, 10 Orsman Road, London N1 - Tel: 020 7033 0123
Review:
Very bitter, the predominant flavour was marmalade. I liked it, but it wasn't a dodger. She had the lime and dark-chocolate parfait with coconut sorbet and caramel cream. Again, you could only stand back and marvel. Each flavour brought so many notes; each note bounced off another flavour. It was symphonic...says Jasper Gerard
Website: www.waterhouserestaurant.co.uk
Score: 4/10

Belinda Richardson Restaurants Reviews:
Name:
Three of a kind
Review:
Belinda Richardson goes in search of water worlds


The Independent

Terry Durack Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Thiptara, Peninsula Hotel, 333 Charoennakorn Road, Klongsan, Bangkok - Tel: 00662 861 2888
Review:
Quilon shines its brightest when it simply does things how they should be done, like the yoghurt and appams. What, then, got it the Michelin star – doing things properly, or the boring room, high prices and overly refined cooking?...say Terry Durack
Website:

Score: 16/20

John Walsh Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Board'eaux, Grosvenor House Hotel, Park Lane, London W1 - Tel: 020 7399 8460
Review:
It's a mystery why either of these dishes ever slipped off our menus. Less so steak Diane, an entirely brown plateful of soft meat and sludgy, caramelised onion sauce that was rather too vivid an evocation of the old days....says John Walsh
Website: http://www.marriott.co.uk


The Observer

Jay Rayner Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Waterhouse, 10 Orsman Street, London N1 - Tel: 020 7033 0123
Review:
Eco Friendly..The brusque was my slow-roasted shoulder of lamb, served in torn caramelised lumps atop sauteed potatoes with a dribble of mint sauce. A picture of that dish would serve very well as the definition for the word 'dinner' in the dictionary....says Jay Rayner
Website:


Matthew Norman Restaurant Reviews:
Name: The Walnut Tree, Llanddewi Skirrid, Abergavenny, Monmouthshire - Tel: 01873 852797
Review:
Both puddings - a Bakewell tart that you couldn't really resent for bringing that cardiac infarction forward by three to six months, and a beautifully balanced torte of chocolate and blood orange - were sensational..says Matthew Norman
Website:
http://www.thewalnuttreeinn.com
Score: - 9.75/10

The Sunday Times

AA Gill Restaurant Reviews:
Name:

Review: No Review this week ..says AA Gill
Website:

Rod Liddle Restaurant Reviews:
Name: 5* The Harrow at Little Bedwyn, Little Bedwyn, nr Marlborough, Wiltshire - Tel: 01672 870871
Review:Everything was delectable and you can eat your meal with 'icon' wines. This will cost you a few bob..say Rod Liddle
Website: http://www.harrowinn.co.uk/

Michael Winner - Winners Dinners Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Olden, Promenase, Gstadd 3780, Switzerland
Review:
I’m not sure if it was Swiss cognac. Finally I scoffed iced capuccino Italian style. A sort of cold capuccino mousse. Everything was superb...says Michael Winner
Website:

Giles Coren Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Le Cafe Anglais, 8 Porchester Gardens, London - Tel: 020 7221 1415
Review:
..says Giles Coren
Website:
Score: 8.5/10

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The Sunday Times has currently changed their website - therefore the majority of links below this may not work.

16th March Restaurant Reviews

The Sunday Times

AA Gill Restaurant Reviews:
Name: 2* Market, 43 Parkway, London NW1 - Tel: 020 7267 9700

Review: My chicken and ham pie was a disaster. It was a sarcophagus of bone-dry, boiled and shredded ham, with hen tits..says AA Gill
Website:

Michael Winner - Winners Dinners Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester, The Dorchester, Park Lane, Dorchester, W1K 1QA - Tel: 020 7629 8866
Review:
There were many empty tables. At the prices they charge for tasteless twaddle, the word is obviously out...says Michael Winner
Website: http://www.alainducasse-dorchester.com/dorchester.php

Giles Coren Restaurant Reviews:
Name:
Review:
No review this week..says Giles Coren
Website:
Score:

Joe Joseph Restaurant Reviews
Name: The Landau, The Langham, 1c Portland Place, London W1 - Tel: 020 7965 0165
Review:
ou have to concentrate. It’s like sitting next to someone at dinner who seizes your head and swivels it back towards them if you dare to chat to the person seated on your other side.
Website: http://www.thelandau.com/landau_london.html


The Telegraph

Jasper Gerard Restaurant Review
Name: The Castle at Taunton, Castle Green, Taunton, Somerset - Tel: 01823 272 671
Review:
Eventually, Diana takes delivery of her turbot with melt-in-the-mouth-good gnocchi and smoked bacon butter that makes the fish sit up and sing. For me, the steamed lamb neck pudding with hotpot and roast rump is almost worth the drive to Taunton....says Jasper Gerard
Website: www.the-castle-hotel.com
Score: 6/10

Zoe Williams Restaurant Review
Name: Tom Ilic, 123 Queenstown Road, London SW8 - Tel: 020 7622 0555
Review:
Very bitter, the predominant flavour was marmalade. I liked it, but it wasn't a dodger. She had the lime and dark-chocolate parfait with coconut sorbet and caramel cream. Again, you could only stand back and marvel. Each flavour brought so many notes; each note bounced off another flavour. It was symphonic...says Zoe Williams
Website: http://www.tomilic.com/

Belinda Richardson Restaurants Reviews:
Name:
Three of a kind
Review:
Belinda Richardson goes in search for three forts that count


The Independent

Terry Durack Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Le Cassoulet, 18 Selsdon Road, South Croydon, Surrey - Tel: 020 8633 1818
Review:
Quilon shines its brightest when it simply does things how they should be done, like the yoghurt and appams. What, then, got it the Michelin star – doing things properly, or the boring room, high prices and overly refined cooking?...say Terry Durack
Website:

Score: 14/20

Tracey MacLeod Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Yellows, Norwich City FC, Carrow Road, Norwich - Tel: 01603 218209
Review:
It's a mystery why either of these dishes ever slipped off our menus. Less so steak Diane, an entirely brown plateful of soft meat and sludgy, caramelised onion sauce that was rather too vivid an evocation of the old days....says John Walsh
Website: http://www.deliascanarycatering.co.uk/yellows.php


The Observer

Jay Rayner Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Le Cassoulet, 18 Selsdon Road, Corydon - Tel: 020 8633 1818
Review:
. Part of the appeal lies in the unfussy presentation. While there is a certain amount of self-conscious theatre - individual casseroles of stews to be spooned into bowls, cuts of meat carved tableside - there is very little overadornment....says Jay Rayner
Website:


Matthew Norman Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Tom's Place, 1 Cale Stree, London SW3 - Tel: 020 7351 1806
Review:
She raved about her pollack and fat chips, deep-fried in beef dripping as the Creator intended (Leviticus), justly lauding crunchiness of batter and freshness of flesh within. She sanctified her mushy peas, too... ..says Matthew Normans wife
Website:
http://www.tomsplace.org.uk/
Score: - 6.75/10

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9th March Restaurant Reviews

The Sunday Times

AA Gill Restaurant Reviews:
Name: 1* Waterhouse, 10 Orsman Roan, London N1 - Tel: 020 7033 0123

Review: The duck risotto was sloppy rice, full of fatty, meaty bits, as if Jemima Puddle-Duck had flown through a wind farm..says AA Gill
Website: http://www.waterhouserestaurant.co.uk/

Michael Winner - Winners Dinners Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Messer Maguire, O'Connell Vridge, Burgh Quay, Dublin 2 - Tel: 00353 16705777
Review:
A pleasant meal which only cost €40.50, which I make £28.32 including wine for Geraldine. That’s a bargain...says Michael Winner
Website: http://www.messrsmaguire.ie/

Giles Coren Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Oslo Court, Charlbert Street, London NW8 - Tel: 020 7722 8795
Review:
I thought to myself: wouldn’t it be fun to do a comparative review between a top-notch restaurant from 2008 and one from 1978?...says Giles Coren
Website:
Score: 8.0/10

The Telegraph

Jasper Gerard Restaurant Review
Name: Apicius, 23 Stone Street, Cranbrook, Kent - Tel: 01580 714666
Review:
What really impresses about Apicius is that Johnson conjures these masterworks without help. He even does the washing up. And Mrs J jollies along with just one waitress. Unlike the girth of the original Apicius, this Apicius is slimline: the perfect riposte to rustic restaurateurs who claim they don't have the staff to serve scoff that might be mildly edible...says Jasper Gerard
Website: www.restaurant-apicius.co.uk

Zoe Williams Restaurant Review
Name: Hibiscus, 29 Maddox Street, London W1 - Tel: 020 7629 2999
Review:
Very bitter, the predominant flavour was marmalade. I liked it, but it wasn't a dodger. She had the lime and dark-chocolate parfait with coconut sorbet and caramel cream. Again, you could only stand back and marvel. Each flavour brought so many notes; each note bounced off another flavour. It was symphonic...says Zoe Williams
Website: http://www.hibiscusrestaurant.co.uk/
Score:

Belinda Richardson:
Name:
Three of a kind
Review:
Belinda Richardson decides it's time to veg out.


The Independent

Terry Durack Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Le Cassoulet, 18 Selsdon Road, South Croydon, Surrey - Tel: 020 8633 1818
Review:
Quilon shines its brightest when it simply does things how they should be done, like the yoghurt and appams. What, then, got it the Michelin star – doing things properly, or the boring room, high prices and overly refined cooking?...say Terry Durack
Website:

Score: 14/20

John Walsh Restaurant Reviews:
Name: The Grill, Browns Hotel, 33 Albermarle Street, London W1 - Tel: 020 7493 6020
Review:
It's a mystery why either of these dishes ever slipped off our menus. Less so steak Diane, an entirely brown plateful of soft meat and sludgy, caramelised onion sauce that was rather too vivid an evocation of the old days....says John Walsh
Website: http://www.brownshotel.com/dining/


The Observer

Jay Rayner Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Anthony's at Flannels, 68 Vicar Lane, Leeds - Tel: 01132 428732
Review:
. But there were still flashes of brilliance. Their trademark Parmesan butter, which I first tried at Anthony's, was as good as ever. Some crisp, greaseless cauliflower tempura with a thick curried cauliflower veloute was both soothing and a punch of flavour, a culinary iron fist in a velvet glove...says Jay Rayner
Website:
http://www.anthonysatflannels.co.uk/

Matthew Norman Restaurant Reviews:
Name: The Royal Oak, Paley Street, Nr Maidenhead, Berkshire - Tel: 01628 620541
Review:
"Oh my God, that's unbelievable," Nick murmured as the first mouthful of crunchy breadcrumbs, peppery sausagemeat and runny quail's egg yolk hit the tastebuds.. ..says Matthew Norman
Website:
http://www.theroyaloakpaleystreet.com/
Score: - 9.25/10

Top


2nd March Restaurant Reviews

The Sunday Times

AA Gill Restaurant Reviews:
Name:
Review:
No review from AA Gill this week
Website:

Michael Winner - Winners Dinners Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Nobu Berkeley Street, 15 Berkeley Street, London W1 - Tel: 0207 290 9222
Review:
All the food was good. My only criticism is that the Mont Blanc Berkeley dessert had rather chewy meringue...says Michael Winner
Website: http://www.noburestaurants.com/

Giles Coren
Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Tom Ilic, 123 Queenstown Road, London SW8 - Tel: 020 7622 0555
Review:
Amid the bloated restaurant scene typified by Sumosan in Mayfair, Coren finds a delightful restaurant in South London...says Giles Coren
Website: http://www.tomilic.com/
Score: 8.5/10

The Telegraph

Mark Palmer Restaurant Reviews:
Name:
Review:
No review this week from Mark Palmer
Website:
Score:

Jasper Gerard Restaurant Review
Name: Terre a Terre, 71 East Street, Brighton - Tel: 01273 729051
Review:
The case for vegetarianism is surely unanswerable. But first vegetarianism must make that case. Terre à Terre is leading the debate, but it needs to hone its argument...says Jasper Gerard
Website: www.terreaterre.co.uk

Zoe Williams Restaurant Review
Name: Texture, 34 Portman Street, London W1 - Tel: 020 7224 0028
Review:
So, in conclusion, yes and no; but the yes moments were just delightful. And at lunchtime it gets fabulously cheap, apparently. So not to at least try it would be an act of open folly..says Zoe Williams
Website: http://www.texture-restaurant.co.uk
Score: 7/10

Belinda Richardson:
Name:
Three of a kind
Review:
Belinda Richardson decides it's time to veg out.


The Independent

Terry Durack Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Quilon, 41 Buckingham Gate, London SW1 - Tel: 020 7821 1899
Review:
Quilon shines its brightest when it simply does things how they should be done, like the yoghurt and appams. What, then, got it the Michelin star – doing things properly, or the boring room, high prices and overly refined cooking?...say Terry Durack
Website:
http://www.thequilonrestaurant.com/
Score: 14/20

Tracey MacLeod
Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Oslo Court, Charlbert Street, London NW8 - Tel: 020 7722 8795
Review:
It's a mystery why either of these dishes ever slipped off our menus. Less so steak Diane, an entirely brown plateful of soft meat and sludgy, caramelised onion sauce that was rather too vivid an evocation of the old days....says Tracey MacLeod
Website:


The Observer

Jay Rayner Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Allen & Delancey, 115 Allen Street, New York - Tel: 001 212 253 5400
Review:
. So a dish simply called 'cabbage, beef and onion' brings a leaf of the former enclosing a luxurious, meaty stuffing, a long-braised onion, a perfectly cooked fillet of local beef, the whole bound by an impeccable jus....says Jay Rayner
Website:
http://www.allenanddelancey.net/

Matthew Norman
Restaurant Reviews:
Name: The Red Sea, 382 Uxbridge Road, London W12 - Tel: 020 8749 6888
Review:
If the soup is glorious, the rice that accompanies most dishes in insanely gigantic mounds and heavily flavoured with cumin, cardamon and cloves is heavenly. "I'd come for the rice alone," the boy observed during our latest visit, "and this fish is the best I've ever eaten, including that trout I caught myself.". ..says Matthew Norman
Website:
http://www.sothebys.com/cafe/
Score: - 6.0/10


Jan Moir Restaurant Reviews - Are your Ready to Order
Name: The Mercer, 34 Threadneedle Street, London EC2 - Tel: 020 7628 0001

Review:
The small chunks of oxtail underneath the hake are tender and very tasty, but the dish is spoiled by replacing the advertised watercress with baby gem lettuce, which wilts and sags horribly under the onslaught of a shallot and oxtail sauce..says Jan Moir
Website:
http://www.themercer.co.uk/

Top


24th February Restaurant Reviews

The Sunday Times

AA Gill Restaurant Reviews:
Name: 3* Tom's Place, 1 Cale Street, London - Tel: 020 7351 1806
Review:
The chips are the right size and consistency, the vinegar is malt, the fat is beef. What lets it down is the fish... says AA Gill
Website: http://www.tomskitchen.co.uk

Michael Winner - Winners Dinners Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Gstaad Palace, Palacestrasse, 3780 Gstaad, Switzerland - Tel: +41 (0)33 748 5000
Review:
The food under Peter Wyss, the chef, is not overfussed, plate decorated into extinction, or achieving anything other than simple quality...says Michael Winner
Website: http://www.palace.ch/

Giles Coren
Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Tom's Place, 1 Cale Street, London - Tel: 020 7351 1806
Review:
Just because Tom Aikens has a silly haircut, it doesn’t mean he isn’t the Messiah...says Giles Coren
Website: http://www.tomskitchen.co.uk
Score: 9.5/10

The Telegraph

Mark Palmer Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Tom's Place, 1 Cale Street, London - Tel: 020 7351 1806
Review:
t turns out that the sole is oilier than the cod and no one had told us about its infestation of sultanas. The cod is gorgeously crunchy on the outside and melt-in-your-mouth succulent on the inside. And if you like fat, stubby chips rather than the long, thin McDonald's type, you will love these. We order a bowl of mushy peas and soon ask for seconds......says Mark Palmer
Website: http://www.tomskitchen.co.uk
Score: 7/10




The Independent

Terry Durack Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Market, 43 Parkway, London - Tel: 020 7267 9700
Review:
Market has a more independent voice than the (very welcome) rash of modern British gastropub/bistros – British, certainly, but not relentlessly so. It's strong, sustainable and sustaining, and I find it more exciting than the last 20 glitzy, exploitative, upmarket restaurant concepts to have come along...say Terry Durack
Website:
Score: 16/20

John Walsh
Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Wishy-Washy, Water House, 10 Orsman Road, London N1 - Tel: 020 7033 0123
Review:
But the magic of the place has apparently drawn him into the kitchens on a more or less full-time basis, and both Hill and the Tree seem to be thriving on it....says John Walsh
Website:


The Observer

Jay Rayner Restaurant Reviews:
Name: The Fountain, Fortnum & Mason, 181 Piccadilly, London W1 - Tel: 0845 602 5694
Review:
The best you can say about the Fountain is that it's proof that London's restaurant sector has improved to such a degree that even the bad places are now capable of serving good food. Which is bizarre. Much like the Fountain...says Jay Rayner
Website:
http://www.fortnumandmason.com

Matthew Norman
Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Sotheby's Cafe, Sotheby's, 34-35 New Bond Street, London W1 - Tel: 020 7293 5077
Review:
A shared pudding of buttermilk pannacotta was light, lemony and delicious, but came with a horrid Florentine biscuit that drew an involuntary, "Ooh dear, they've let themselves down at the death." But apart from that, the bread, the collapsing sandwich and service that seemed designed to clear tables as quickly as possible, this was an exemplary reminder of how pleasing really well-executed wine bar food can be. ..says Matthew Norman
Website:
http://www.sothebys.com/cafe/
Score: - 7.75/10


Jan Moir Restaurant Reviews - Are your Ready to Order
Name:

Review:
No Review this week... says Jan Moir
Website:

Top


17th February Restaurant Reviews

The Sunday Times

AA Gill Restaurant Reviews:
Name: 2* Foxtrot Oscar, 79 Royal Hospital Road, London SW3 - Tel: 020 7352 4448
Review:
Foxtrot Oscar is a talismanic example of why a certain style of English public schoolboy will never be fit for anything... says AA Gill
Website: http://www.gordonramsay.com/foxtrotoscar/

Michael Winner - Winners Dinners Restaurant Reviews:
Name: The Lowry Hotel, 50 Dearmans PLace, Chapel Wharf, Manchester M3 5LH - Tel: 0161 827 4000
Review:
These lunches are on what’s called the rubber chicken circuit. Rubber would have been infinitely preferable...says Michael Winner
Website: http://www.thelowryhotel.com/home/

Giles Coren
Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Caldesi in Campagna, Old Mill Lane, Bray, Berkshire - Tel: 01628 788500
Review:
It was as if I had ridden out of town on horseback to visit some secret house of hedonism...says Giles Coren
Website: http://www.campagna.caldesi.com/
Score:

The Telegraph

Mark Palmer Restaurant Reviews:
Name: 60 Hope Street, Liverpool - Tel: 0151 707 6060
Review:
It's been a happy evening and it could end up being even happier if we could crack the code to discover who threw the baby shower. But lips remain tightly zipped.....says Mark Palmer
Website: www.60hopestreet.com
Score: 7/10

Belinda Richardson
Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Three of a kind
Review:



The Independent

Terry Durack Restaurant Reviews:
Name: Vermilion, Hulme Hall Lane, Lord North Street, Manchester - Tel: 0161 202 0055
Review:
Where the hell am I? Manchester is surreal enough at the best of times, but with Vermilion, the city's newest, largest and most ambitious restaurant, I have every reason to suspect I have fallen through a rift in the space-time continuum...say Terry Durack
Website:
Score: 12/20

Tracey MacLeod Restaurant Reviews:
Name: The Walnut Tree Inn, Llandewi Skirrid, Abergavenny - Tel 01873 852797
Review:
But the magic of the place has apparently drawn him into the kitchens on a more or less full-time basis, and both Hill and the Tree seem to be thriving on it....says Tracey MacLeod
Website: http://www.thewalnuttreeinn.com

Adrian Murphy - Plate with a View
Name: Hanavsky Pavilion, Letenske Sady 173, Prague, Czech Republic - Tel: 00 420 233 323 641
Review:
ulajda soup from South West Bohemia is so thick and creamy that sliced hardboiled eggs float on the surface while sticky Olomouc cheese has an aroma that will excite die-hard fromage-aholics. Desserts are less flamboyant – crêpes, sorbet, carrot cake – but the wine list offers a good range of Czech, Italian, Spanish and French vintages.
Website: www.hanavskypavilon.cz


The Observer

Jay Rayner Restaurant Reviews:
Name: The Yorke Arms, Ramsgill, North Yorkshire - Tel: 01423 755 243
Review:
No matter. This was a very good lunch indeed, in the sort of surroundings that can't help but make things feel special. And after good coffee, and tiny tablets of fudge, we laced up our boots and set off for a long hike over the grand hills of Olde England for the betterment of our souls..says Jay Rayner
Website:
http://www.yorke-arms.co.uk/

Matthew Norman
Restaurant Reviews:
Name:
Quilon, 41 Buckingham Gate, London SW1 - Tel: 020 7821 1899
Review:
My Koondapur fish curry floated rectangles of juicy halibut on a thin gravy suffused with coconut, onions, tamarind and plenty of chilli, while my wife's guinea fowl stew elicited a rousing, "Oh my God, they know how to cook here... this is superb, especially the flavour of curry leaves. Just wonderful." ..says Matthew Norman
Website:
http://www.thequilonrestaurant.com/
Score: - 8.5/10


Jan Moir Restaurant Reviews - Are your Ready to Order
Name: Galvins at Windows, London Hilton, 22 Park Lane, London W1 - Tel: 020 7208 4021

Review:
Galvin at Windows which is run by Chris and Jeff Galvin of Galvin's Bistrot, one of our favourite restaurants in London - was awarded a rising Michelin star when the new grades were published last month. Everyone involved will be working extra hard this year to secure that first star proper; another good reason to visit... says Jan Moir
Website:
http://www.galvinrestaurants.com

Top


11th February Restaurant Reviews

The Sunday Times

AA Gill:
Name: 3* Sake No Hana, 23 St James Street, London SW1 - Tel: 020 7925 8988
Review:
They had imported the cow from Australia. It was served by a Pole, in a restaurant owned by a Russian - very Japanese.. says AA Gill
Website:

Michael Winner - Winners Dinners:
Name: Fishpot, Little Good Harbour, St Peter, Barbados, Tel: 246439 300
Review:
The highlight of this year’s Barbadossing...says Michael Winner
Website:
http://www.littlegoodharbourbarbados.com/restaurant.html

Giles Coren:
Name: Waterloo Brasserie, 119 Waterloo Road, London SE1 - Tel: 020 7960 0202

Review:
Odd place Waterloo, ever since it became St Pancras’s ugly sister. It's a bit like a panto in January...says Giles Coren
Website: www.waterloobrasserie.com
Score:

The Telegraph

Mark Palmer:
Name: The Horn of Plenty, Gulworth, Tavistock, Devon -Tel: 01822 832528

Review:
Standards are just as high when it comes to the mains. The venison includes celeriac, but it's puréed and neither the red wine shallots nor the cassis-flavoured sauce pin you back in the chair. We also have the beef, which is perfectly sliced, wonderfully tender and accompanied by two little truffles the size of a 10p coin and a ping-pong ball of cabbage and ham....says Mark Palmer
Website: www.thehornofplenty.co.uk
Score: 9/10

Belinda Richardson:
Name:
Three of a kind
Review:



The Independent

Terry Durack:
Name: Dehesa, 25 Ganton Street, London W1 - Tel: 020 7494 4170

Review:
Dehesa is a classy little place that swells the ranks of casual, produce-led Spanish-influenced diners such as Barrafina, Moro and Tapas Brindisa. Likeable and easy-going, it makes the produce the star, supported by personable service and usable wine options. At this stage, it's better at night than at brunch, but I think that says more about us than them...say Terry Durack
Website:
Score: 14/20

John Walsh
Name: Urban Urban, 98 Westbourne Grove, London W2 - Tel: 020 7243 4200
Review:
We ordered sides of Bombay potatoes and sag paneer (priced at £6 each) but they never showed up, even after two reminders. We asked about puddings and were told that all the ice-cream dishes were off. A cardamom pannacotta was passable in an extruded-plastic way, and we left (for my second time) disgruntled....says John Walsh
Website:


The Observer

Jay Rayner:
Name:

Review:

Website:

Matthew Norman:
Name: Alberico at Aspinalls, 27-28 Curzon Street, London W1 -Tel: 0207 499 4599

Review:
My pappardelle with hare ragù was an impressive dish, the fresh pasta being perfectly al dente and the winey, gamey sauce falling just the right side of overpowering.. - says Matthew Norman
Website: http://www.aspinalls-club.com/
Score: - 6.25/10


Jan Moir - Are your Ready to Order
Name: Tom's PLace, 1 Cale Street, Londn SW3 3QT -Tel: 020 7351 1806

Review: Back in the restaurant, the chips are fried in beef dripping, while the fish is, I think, cooked in oil. Aikens’ batter is made with a mixture of carbonated water and beer, which wraps around the fish with a whispery crunch and has just the right amount of friable texture.. says Jan Moir
Website: http://www.tomskitchen.co.uk

Top


3rd February Restaurant Reviews

The Sunday Times

AA Gill:
Name: 5* The Square, 6-10 Bruton Street, London W1 - Tel: 020 7495 7100
Review:
This unlikely cluster, this frot of small-boy ingredients at The Square, came together and sang like a choir of eunuch pigs.. says AA Gill
Website:

Michael Winner - Winners Dinners:
Name: The Soho Sandwich Company, 414b Union Walk, London E2 8HP - Tel: 020 7729 6280
Review:
Out with the slice boys and the Spice Girls..says Michael Winner
Website: http://www.sohosandwich.co.uk/

Giles Coren:
Name: The Haozhan, 8 Gerrard Street, London W1 - Tel: 020 7434 3838

Review:
Don't for a minute think that the era of the traditional grumpy chinese waiter is over...says Giles Coren
Website: http://www.haozhan.co.uk/
Score: 5.0

The Telegraph

Mark Palmer:
Name:
Foxtrot Oscar, 79a Royal Hospital Road, London SW3 - Tel: 020 7352 4448
Review:
Our main courses aren't anything like as impressive and we have to order extra portions of spinach and Savoy cabbage at £3 a time to make sure we don't leave feeling hungry. Cassoulet of Goosnargh duck comprises a leg and thigh plonked on a bed of beans and tomatoes; a rib-eye steak is on the stingy side and clearly not hot enough because the snail butter doesn't come close to melting; and the fish pie is also meagre, although there's lots of pastry casing...says Mark Palmer
Website: http://www.gordonramsay.com/foxtrotoscar/
Score: 6/10

Belinda Richardson:
Name:
Three of a kind
Review:



The Independent

Terry Durack:
Name: L'Absinthe, 40 Chalcot Road, London NW1 - Tel: 020 7483 4848

Review:
If a restaurateur takes a night off, even the most obtuse diner often picks up that something is missing. The warmth of greeting, the smoothness of service, perhaps the pacing of the meal – something is not quite right. But if the chef takes the night off, how do you know? I've had some of my best meals on the chef's night off..say Terry Durack
Website:
Score: 14/20

Tracey MacLeod
Name: The Kingham Plough, Kingham, Oxfordshire - Tel: 01608 658327
Review:
Watkins is also let down by a young front-of- house team that on the day of our visit was distinctly overstretched. Despite setting aside two-hours-plus for our lunch, we missed out on sampling the local cheeses due to the imminent departure of our train, and the grand couple at the next table swept out of the place, unable to wait any longer for their main courses...says Tracey MacLeod
Website: http://www.thekinghamplough.co.uk


The Observer

Jay Rayner:
Name: Sake No Hana, 23 St James Street, London SW1 - Tel: 020 7925 8988

Review:
We had seen no desserts on the menu, which is just as well because they are usually such a letdown in Indian restaurants. We asked for the bill and received instead a visit from the boss, who did a quick mental calculation and said £25. We didn't argue. At that sort of price there is simply nothing to argue about....says Jay Rayner
Website:

Matthew Norman:
Name: Marco, Chelsea Footbal Club, Stamford Bridge, Fulham Road, London SW6 - Tel: 020 7915 2929

Review:
A bruschetta of marinated artichoke, roasted red onions and melted taleggio was imaginative, piquant and delicious, and a fillet of beef carpaccio with a potent onion confit, wild rocket, shaved manchego and a crunchy salad provided "a beautiful combination of textures and taste". - says Matthew Norman
Website: http://www.marcorestaurant.co.uk
Score: - 4.75/10


Jan Moir - Are your Ready to Order
Name: Dehesa, 25 Ganton Street, London W1 - Tel: 020 7494 4170

Review: Foxtrot Oscar in lower Chelsea was one of London’s famously louche restaurants, but how would I know? If I am ever in that area I am buying pillowcases in Peter Jones or a fresh card of navy buttons from their most excellent haberdashery department. I am not drinking gin at one in the morning and wondering if that man in the balding velvet jacket is Joanna Lumley’s ex-husband or Günter Sachs the playboy..- say Jan Moir
Website:

Top


27th January Restaurant Reviews

The Sunday Times

AA Gill:
Name: 4* Urban Turban, 98 Westbourne Grove, London W2 - Tel: 020 7243 4200
Review:
Take the mission statement and the silly hat off Urban Turban and it’s a perfectly moreish indian.. says AA Gill
Website:

Michael Winner - Winners Dinners:
Name: Enoteca Turi, 28 Putney High Street, London SW15 1SQ - Tel: 020 8785 4449
Review:
The food had been generally good. But take your own coffin. You may die waiting for it..says Michael Winner
Website: http://www.enotecaturi.com/

Giles Coren:
Name: Market, 43 Parkway, London NW1 - Tel: 020 7267 9700

Review:
One can't help, on reading the words 'decline in shark numbers', expressing a tiny sigh of relief...says Giles Coren
Website:
Score: 8.5

The Telegraph

Mark Palmer:
Name: The Horseshoe Inn, Eddleston, Peebleshire - Tel: 01721 730225

Review:
It hasn't been a successful evening. What makes it worse is that, as we are about to leave, Miss Steele thinks she recognises me from somewhere. She's right, but I haven't the heart or the bottle to confess that, actually, it was me who was invited a while ago to present her with the Scottish Borders Restaurant of the Year Award...says Mark Palmer
Website: http://www.horseshoeinn.co.uk/
Score: 4/10

Belinda Richardson:
Name:
Three of a kind
Review:



The Independent

Terry Durack:
Name: Northbank, One Paul's Walk, London EC4 - Tel: 020 7329 9299

Review:
If a restaurateur takes a night off, even the most obtuse diner often picks up that something is missing. The warmth of greeting, the smoothness of service, perhaps the pacing of the meal – something is not quite right. But if the chef takes the night off, how do you know? I've had some of my best meals on the chef's night off..say Terry Durack
Website:
Score: 13/20

John Walsh
Name: The Landau, Langham Hotel, 1c Portland Place, London W1 - Tel: 020 7965 0165
Review:
Uniquely for an expensive London restaurant, Sake No Hana doesn't have a wine list; instead, the sommelier guides you through an exhaustive menu of sakes, many of which cost upward of £100. If it all sounds a bit decadent, that's because, as you're probably picking up, this is a restaurant that's not really aimed at the general dining public..says John Walsh
Website: The Landau @ The Langham


The Observer

Jay Rayner:
Name: Hot Stuff, 19 Wilcox Road, Vauxhall, London SW8 - Tel: 020 7720 1480

Review:
We had seen no desserts on the menu, which is just as well because they are usually such a letdown in Indian restaurants. We asked for the bill and received instead a visit from the boss, who did a quick mental calculation and said £25. We didn't argue. At that sort of price there is simply nothing to argue about....says Jay Rayner
Website:

Matthew Norman:
Name: Cafe Shore, 10-14 Banks Road, Sandbanks, Poole, Dorset - Tel: 01202 707271

Review:
A bruschetta of marinated artichoke, roasted red onions and melted taleggio was imaginative, piquant and delicious, and a fillet of beef carpaccio with a potent onion confit, wild rocket, shaved manchego and a crunchy salad provided "a beautiful combination of textures and taste". - says Matthew Norman
Website: http://www.cafeshore.co.uk/
Score: -


Are you ready to order

Jan Moir - Are your Ready to Order
Name: Foxtrot Oscar, 79a Royal Hospital Road, London SW3 - Tel: 020 7352 4448

Review: Foxtrot Oscar in lower Chelsea was one of London’s famously louche restaurants, but how would I know? If I am ever in that area I am buying pillowcases in Peter Jones or a fresh card of navy buttons from their most excellent haberdashery department. I am not drinking gin at one in the morning and wondering if that man in the balding velvet jacket is Joanna Lumley’s ex-husband or Günter Sachs the playboy..- say Jan Moir
Website: http://www.gordonramsay.com/foxtrotoscar/

Top


20th January Restaurant Reviews

The Sunday Times

AA Gill:
Name: 4* The Tiroler Hut, 27 Westbourne Grove, W2 - Tel: 020 7727 3981
Review:
Crass, loud, repetitive, drunken, uncomfortable, embarrassing, cringingly stereotypical and tasteless on many levels. Go now .. says AA Gill
Website: http://www.tirolerhut.co.uk

Michael Winner - Winners Dinners:
Name: Sandy Lane, St James, Barbados, West Indies - Tel: +1 (246) 444 2000
Review:
I suffered roast goose tougher than leather; a dry, almost brittle, Christmas turkey with no stuffing or chipolata sausages in sight..says Michael Winner
Website: http://www.sandylane.com/

Giles Coren:
Name: Giles Coren in Jamaica

Review:
My lunch and I had travelled exactly the same distance to be here (9,200 miles between us)...says Giles Coren
Website:
Score: 1.67

The Telegraph

Mark Palmer:
Name: Urban Turban, 98 Westbourne Grove, London W2 - Tel: 020 7243 4200

Review:
None of us is satisfied and what makes it worse is seeing Bhatia popping upstairs every now and again with a huge grin on his face. We pass on the £6 puddings and demand the bill. A 12.5 per cent discretionary service charge has been included. I ask for it to be removed..says Mark Palmer
Website:
Score: 3/10

Belinda Richardson:
Name:
Three of a kind
Review:
Belinda Richardson is seeking some chic and affordable fare.


Diana Henry
Name: The Rosendale, 65 Rosendale Road, London SE21 - Tel: 020 8670 0812
Review:
The Rosendale is good: the wines are fantastic (it's no surprise to learn that it's owned by a former sommelier), the staff are lovely and the food - discounting the brownie - is well sourced and cooked. But could they hold back on drizzles and daubs? says Diana Henry
Website: http://www.therosendale.co.uk/
Score: 6.5/10

The Independent

Terry Durack:
Name: The Winding Stair, 40 Lower Ormond Quay, Dublin - Tel: 003531 872 7320

Review:
On the ground floor is the bookshop of my dreams – all wonky shelves, leather chairs and an old record player spinning vinyl. Upstairs, via the winding staircase that gives it its name, is what appears to be the Irish restaurant of my dreams, lined with shelves of books and walled with wine.
Website:
Score: 15/20

Tracey Macleod
Name: Sake no Hana, 23 St James Street, London SW1 - Tel: 010 7925 8988
Review:
Uniquely for an expensive London restaurant, Sake No Hana doesn't have a wine list; instead, the sommelier guides you through an exhaustive menu of sakes, many of which cost upward of £100. If it all sounds a bit decadent, that's because, as you're probably picking up, this is a restaurant that's not really aimed at the general dining public..says Tracey MacLeod
Website:

The Observer

Jay Rayner:
Name: Le Cafe Anglais, 8 Porchester Gardens, London W2 - Tel: 020 7221 1415

Review:
Was it without faults? No. The hors d'oeuvres took an age to come, which seemed odd, given that they looked like dishes designed for fast service. I also can't deny that the duck breast with my choucroute was dry and tough and disappointing.- says Jay Rayner
Website: http://www.lecafeanglais.co.uk/

Matthew Norman:
Name: The Griffin Inn, Fletching, Nr Uckfield, East Sussex - Tel: 01825 722890

Review:
A bruschetta of marinated artichoke, roasted red onions and melted taleggio was imaginative, piquant and delicious, and a fillet of beef carpaccio with a potent onion confit, wild rocket, shaved manchego and a crunchy salad provided "a beautiful combination of textures and taste". - says Matthew Norman
Website: http://www.thegriffininn.co.uk/
Score: - 9.5/10


Are you ready to order

Jan Moir - Are your Ready to Order
Name: The Seafood Restaurant, 16 West End, St Monans, Fife, Scotland - Tel: 01333 730327

Review: So up and down the see-saw goes. Yes, it is marvellous that The Seafood Restaurant exists; I’m even pleased that they have won so many awards. Yet it is not nearly as good as it should be, especially as they are charging top prices for the area and seem to rely on a lethargic roster of formula dishes to get them through service. Later, the chef came out to salt the icy paths around the restaurant; a generous gesture and an attention to detail that needs to be applied within as well as without - say Jan Moir
Website: http://www.theseafoodrestaurant.com

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13th January Restaurant Reviews

The Sunday Times

AA Gill:
Name: 1* Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester, The Dorchester Hotel, Park Lane, London - Tel: 020 7629 8866
Review:
It doesn’t matter how rich you are, this place will deafen you with the tearing sound of being ripped off. You will ever eat here says AA Gill
http://www.alainducasse-dorchester.com

Michael Winner - Winners Dinners:
Name: Virgin Airlines from Heathrow

Review:
On the plane Virgin’s upper class layout knocks British Airways first class into the proverbial cocked hat - says Michael Winner
http://www.virgin-atlantic.com

Giles Coren:
Name:
Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester, The Dorchester Hotel, Park Lane, London - Tel: 020 7629 8866
Review:
Food in the late 17th century was not so much roasted, boiled or baked, as mulled. That doesn’t seem very French to me says Giles Coren
http://www.alainducasse-dorchester.com
Score: 5

The Telegraph

Mark Palmer:
Name:
Horse and Groom, Bourton on the Hill, Gloucesterhire - Tel: 01386 700412

Review:
Full marks to the perfectly tender sirloin and to the long, thin crispy chips that are as good as those served at McDonald's. The Brussels sprouts come up trumps, too, but we don't make any inroads into the shredded red cabbage, prompting Joanna to remark that you seldom come across an empty dish of shredded red cabbage, whereas you often see an empty plate of butter beans.
http://www.horseandgroom.info/
Score: 5/10

Belinda Richardson:
Name:
Three of a kind
Review:
Belinda Richardson is horsing around



The Independent

Terry Durack:
Name:
Beach Blanket Babylon, 19-23 Bethnal Green Road, London E1 - Tel: 020 7749 3540

Review:
The burgers might be stone cold, but at least Beach Blanket Babylon serves a mean Porn Star Martini Reviewed by Terry Durack I do so love a good wet/dry split. That's the ratio between sales of drink and food, according to those old romanti...says Terry Durack
http://www.beachblanket.co.uk
Score: 9/20


The Observer

Jay Rayner:
Name:
Lumiere, Clarence Parade, Cheltenham - Tel: 01242 222 200

Review:
It seems bizarre to say this of a place that has so many years on the clock, but Lumiere is a find; a little eccentric, but the genuine expression of personality - says Jay Rayner
http://www.lumiere.cc/

Matthew Norman:
Name:
Jesmond Dene House, Jesmond Dene Road, Newcastle-upon-Tyne - Tel: 0191 212 3000

Review:
Chuck in a decent and fairly priced wine list, and service from smartly aproned staff that at times flirted with superciliousness but was generally good, and this is an impressive and honest restaurant by any standards, let alone by those of the British provincial hotel.
http://www.jesmonddenehouse.co.uk/
Score: - 7.75/10

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6th January Restaurant Reviews

The Sunday Times

AA Gill is away:

Tom Hodgkinson:
Name: - The Quay, 11 The Quay, Ilfracombe, Devon - Tel: 01271 868090
Review:- I’m very glad to add that, inspired by his experience with our pigs, Simon is now planning to keep his own porkers for the restaurant. He has a field nearby, and here he will also put up a couple of polytunnels, dig a vegetable patch and keep chickens, so the Quay will be able to produce many of its own ingredients.
The Quay reopens on Thursday, January 24 2008
http://www.11thequay.co.uk

Winners Dinners:-
Name:- The Royal Oak, Paley Street, Maidenhead, Berkshire - Tel: 01628 620 541
Review:- The Royal Oak chef, a genius for sure, Dominic Chapman, is even better than me with the egg whisk. The kidneys were succulent, delicious, adorable - says Michael Winner
http://www.theroyaloakpaleystreet.com/

Giles Coren:-
Name:- Sake No Hana, 23 St James Street, London - Tel: 020 7925 8988
Review:- Two glasses of champagne for £60 – what the hell have we become- says Giles Coren
Score - 3.0


The Telegraph

Mark Palmer- Are you ready to order
Name:- Sake No Hana, 23 St James's Street, London - Tel: 020 7925 8988
Review:- But then this is a modern, trendy Japanese restaurant in the capital's St James's Street, where Mr Yau could easily get away with charging more. I shall return, but not until he revokes the no-wine rule - says Mark Palmer
Score - 7/10

Belinda Richardson - Three of a Kind
Review: - Belinda Richardson goes in search of the 'yau factor'.


The Independent

Terry Durack:

Name:- Sake No Hana, 23 St James's Street, London - Tel: 020 7925 8988
Review:- Sake No Hana is undoubtedly a class act, impressively designed as a conduit for some very fine talents. It remains to be seen if it has what most of us want from a Japanese restaurant. But then, I'm not entirely convinced it is interested in most of us in the first place - says Terry Durack
John Walsh
Score: 15/20

John Walsh:
Name:- Lamberts, 2 Station Parade, Balham High Road, London - Tel: 020 8675 2233
Review: Next day, I looked at the Hardens guide again. In the list of the London foodies' favourite restaurants under £45 a head, Lamberts came second (after Inside in Greenwich). How enraging to find that one's newest discovery has been well and truly discovered ... says John Walsh
http://www.lambertsrestaurant.com/

The Observer

Jay Rayner:

Name:- Caldesi Campagna, Old Mill Street, Bray, Berkshire - Tel: 01628 788 500
Review:- But again, what really impressed here was the attention to detail: the poached pears with the chocolate tart, the roasted plums with the panna cotta. - says Jay Rayner
http://www.campagna.caldesi.com

Matthew Norman:-
Name:- Le Cafe Anglais, 8 Porchester Gardens, London W2 - Tel: 020 7221 1415
Review:- Le Cafe Anglais' special brilliance, however, lies in the menu. Never have I seen one so seductive in the range and allure of dishes, and the less gluttonous could have a fine, very cheap, tapas-y meal just by sticking to the hors d'oeuvres, all priced at £3 and all fantastically good. - says Matthew Norman
http://www.lecafeanglais.co.uk/

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