AA Gill is away:
Christopher Hart:
Name: - 1*Texture, 34 Prtman Square, London - Tel: 020 7224 0028 Review:- The service, rather heartbreakingly, was uniformly sweet and attentive, and we soon started feeling sorry for them, bringing dish after dish to our table, and each time seeing our woebegone faces begone with yet more woe. http://www.texture-restaurant.co.uk/
Winners Dinners:-
Name:- Malmaison Hotel Oxford, 3 Oxford Castle, New Road, Oxford - Tel: 01865 268400 Review:- A waitress’s T-shirt read, “Your plaice or mine”. It’s that sort of hotel. My cheese tart was brilliant. The duck a bit heavy. They should have gone beyond their 30-mile radius and found a better duck. Geraldine liked her veggies - says Michael Winner
Mark Palmer- Are you ready to order Name:- Review:- No Review this week Belinda Richardson - Three of a Kind
Review: - No Review this week
The Independent
Terry Durack: Name:- Review:- No Review this week
The Observer
Jay Rayner: Name:- Review:- No review this week Matthew Norman:- Name:-Hereford Road, 3 Hereford Road, Westbourne Grove, London W2 4AB - Tel: 020 7727 1144 Review:- Not, of course, that the boys and girls from Michelin will agree. That lot, they could eat tree until all the stars above go nova, and never so much as smile at the notion - says Matthew Norman
Score- 6/10
Giles Coren:- Name:- Snazz Sichuan and Fountain - details below: Review:- As I sit, desperate to start writing, I hear a muttering in my brain of new openings yet unvisited says Giles Coren
Fountain
Fortnum and Mason, 181 Piccadilly, London W1-Tel: 020-7734 8040
Terry Durack: Name:- Le Cafe Anglais, 8 Porchester Gardens, London W8 - Tel: 020 7221 1415 Review:- There is a lot to like at Le Caff – above all, the idea of a restaurant essentially drawn up and driven by a home-grown chef with intelligence and integrity. But it still has a way to go, needing more time to come to grips with the vagaries of the rotisserie, and to bed down its staff. When it does, it could grow into one of the most loved – and luvviest – joints in town says Terry Durack Score - 15/20 http://www.lecafeanglais.co.uk/
Matthew Norman:- Name:-Patio, 5 Goldhawk Road, London W12 - Tel: 020 8743 5194 Review:- Whether the reciprocal adoration felt by Patio's regulars makes it all worthwhile, I cannot say. But every time I walk down Goldhawk Road and see this uniquely wonderful little place once again unfilled by paying customers, I am reminded that, while I may yet emulate Winston Churchill by becoming both prime minister and Nobel Laureate for literature, the one thing I will never do is try to run a restaurant. 9/10
Tracey MacLeod
Name: L'Autre, 5-7 Blandford Street, London Tel: 020 7486 9696
Review: Our bill came to £116 before service – not a bad price for cooking of this quality, served by a crack front-of-house team. I'm sure L'Autre Pied will find its clientele; people who enjoy high production values without the folderol of fine dining. But I suspect Kevin won't be among them, and I know I won't be. http://www.lautrepied.co.uk
The Observer
Jay Rayner: Name:- Bidendum, Michelin Housem 81 Fulham Road, London SW3 - Tel: 020 7581 5817 Review:- The creme in a creme brulee was fine, though the topping was too thick and a little burnt. A rich baked chocolate and ginger mousse cake was better - says Jay Rayner http://www.bibendum.co.uk/
Mark Palmer- Are you ready to order Name:-Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester, Park Lane, London W1 - Tel: 020 7629 8866 Review:- Two of us share rum baba and are given a choice of rum. It's with some reluctance that we pass it around the table, but what comes our way in the form of a chocolate praline and orange concoction and a "chocolate and raspberry star" masterpiece is just as good. We even have room for a few pastries and meringues that are laid out on trays beside the table. And we would have taken up the offer of some pudding wine had this not been ruinous enough. Score -8/10 http://www.alainducasse-dorchester.com/
Belinda Richardson - Three of a Kind
Review: - Belinda Richardson goes in search of three hotel hotshots.
Matthew Norman:- Name:-Boardeaux Quay, V-Shed, Canons Way, Bristol, Tel: 0117 943 1200 Review:- In short, this is a gleaming jewel of a restaurant that underpins its principles with flair, imagination and rigorous professionalism, and illustrates the value of buying first-class ingredients and then cooking them with precision but without fuss - says Matthew Norman http://www.bordeaux-quay.co.uk/
Terry Durack: Name:- Hibiscus, 29 Maddox Street, London W1 - Tel: 020 7629 2999 Review:- Bosi is an effortless cook, instinctively knowing how to exploit natural flavour and remain in the modern idiom without being silly. The food is polished yet personal, graceful yet satiating. This is a small, fully formed, family-run restaurant of great charm. If London knows what's good for it, it won't let it out of its clutches..says Terry Durack http://www.hibiscusrestaurant.co.uk/about.htm
Score - 17/20
Jay Rayner: Name:- McCoys Rooftop at the Baltic, Gateshead, Tyne & Wear - Tel: 0191 440 4949 Review:- I have seen scallops and cauliflower puree dancing together all over the country, and it is a combination that works. Here it was a stumble rather than something graceful. The scallops, though accurately cooked, were over-seasoned, and the purees lacked richness - says Jay Rayner
Jay Rayner: Name:- Divo, 12 Waterloo PLace, London SW1 - Tel: 020 7484 1355 Review:- I had Grandmother's Golubzi, which sounds like an ailment of old age: floppy white cabbage leaves, wrapped around under-seasoned pork mince beneath a gloopy tomato sauce. I wish grandma well. - says Jay Rayner
Matthew Norman:- Name:-Texture, 34 Portman Square, London W1 - Tel: 020 7224 0028 Review:- "There then arrived a dish of such majesty that all previous irritations momentarily evaporated. "Icelandic lamb (from Skagafjör...ur)" was its name,.....- says Matthew Norman 6.75/10
Winners Dinners:-
Name:- Rhubarb Catering Services Review:- This was a very good meal. Miraculous really when you’re chucking it out to 250 people at more or less the same time Giles Coren:- Name:- Hereford Road, 3 Hereford Road, London W2 - Tel: 020 7727 1144 Review:- We tore at the whole oxtail like pterodactyls, plucking and scraping the meat and fat Score - 8
The Telegraph
Mark Palmer- Are you ready to order Name:-The Rocks, Marine Road, Dunbar, East Lothian - Tel: 01368 862287 Review:- Perfectly cooked, it comes with thick-cut chips stacked up like bales of straw. They remind me of that game called Jenga, popular on the dinner party circuit in the 1990s. Fried haddock in tempura batter is just as big and just as satisfactory. Score -7/10
Belinda Richardson - Three of a Kind
Review: -Belinda Richardson discovers food and fun on the rocks
Jay Rayner: Name:- The Dining Room at the Railway Hotel, Preston Street, Faversham, Kent - Tel: 01795 533 173 Review:- The Dining Room, a new venture, is the creature of two young chefs. Anthony North learnt his chops in a series of London restaurants, including under Michel Bourdin at the old Connaught, when they still used to set fire to things tableside. - says Jay Rayner
Matthew Norman:- Name:-Haozhan, 8 Gerrard Street, London W1 - Tel: 020 7434 3838 Review:- "That was an excellent lunch," said my friend, offering me a lift in his cab as we left, but although he was right, I felt strangely unsatisfied and headed for the nearest casino in search of the punishment that Haozhan had so wilfully failed to provide - says Matthew Norman 8/10
Winners Dinners:-
Name:- Oxford Union Review:- The food can be summed up in one word: pretty awful. That’s two words. If I’d gone to Oxford I’d have been clever Giles Coren:- Name:- Wahaca, 66 Chandos Place, London WC2 - Tel: 020 7240 1883 Review:- There were so many tortilla chips when we sat down, I could have left, stuffed, without ordering Score - 7.25
Jay Rayner: Name:- Vanilla Black, 26 Swingate, York - Tel: 01904 676 750 Review:- The part of this meal which really indicated a strong hand in the kitchen was the smallest: a tiny pot of home-made brown sauce to go with my gypsy toast - says Jay Rayner
Matthew Norman:- Name:-The Elephant, 3-4 Beacon Terrace, Harbourside, Torquay - Tel: 01803 200044 Review:- He paid up and headed for the car, gratefully sucking in the aromas of sea and stale chip fat, and agreeing that, for all the obvious failings in cooking and service at a fictional hotel up the road, we'd take the fiascoid hilarity of Gourmet Night at Fawlty Towers over another meal at the "Pretentious? Moi?", Michelin-fixated Elephant any time. says Matthew Norman
14th October Restaurant Reviews
The Sunday Times
AA Gill:-
Name:- The Pleasure Principle Review:- An unashamedly intolerant perfectionist - the country's most revered restaurant critic talks about his time at the table
Mark Palmer- Are you ready to order Name:-La Tour d'Argent, 15-17 Quai de la Tournelle, 75005 Paris - Tel: 00331 43 542331 Review:- The duck is in slices, too, and covered in a thick brown gravy containing the blood and juices from the crushed duckling. No veg. The meat is wonderfully tender and the jus miraculously lighter than it looks. I have enjoyed it but am ready to move on. But along comes another plate, carrying the legs of the same bird, but done in a more crispy-duck style. Score - 7/10
Belinda Richardson - Three of a Kind
Review: - Belinda Richardson goes in search of Haute Paris
Jay Rayner: Name:- St John, 26 St John Street, London EC1 - Tel: 020 7251 0848 Review:- There are fewparts of the animal from intestines to marrow bone, that haven't found their way on to a plate at St John. Jay Rayner pens a love letter to a champion of the British farmyard
Matthew Norman:- Name:-Rafters, 220 Oakbrook Road, Sheffield, South Yorkshire - Tel: 0114230 4819 Review:- Best of all though - and by some distance - were those puddings: an incredibly good, intensely flavoured Seville orange tart with dark chocolate sorbet, and an amazingly delicate "coffee essence panacotta" with mascarpone milk and praline ice cream that showed off the chef's imagination and technical adroitness to the full. Score- 7.25/10
Terry Durack: Name:- Angelus, 4 Bathurst Street, London W2 - Tel: 020 7402 0083 Review:- By definition, a signature dish is something unique, indelibly linked with a particular chef or restaurant. Sometimes it is an inadvertent icon, becoming a "signature" through the sheer number of times it is written on the order pad.
Score - 13/20
John Walsh:
Name: Kenza, 10 Devonshire Gardens, London EC2 - Tel: 020 7929 5533
Review: Put it like this. You enter the place thinking about Scheherazade and the 1001 Nights. You leave feeling you've been to a provincial performance (with interval snacks) of Kismet.
Jay Rayner: Name:- Haozhan in Chinatown, 8 Gerrard Street, London W1 - Tel: 020 7434 3838 Review:- The generous slabs of fish had first been sealed off, but so sensitively that as you cut through the outer skin, the huge flakes of pearly fish fell apart. The XO part of this plateful simply cut through the richness. I would come here for this dish alone says Jay Rayner
Matthew Norman:- Name:-Skylon, Royal Festival Hall, London SE1 - Tel: 020 7654 7800 Review:- Reports suggest that the less poncy food served in the other sections is better and cheaper than this more exhibitionist stuff, which makes me think Puolakka might consider refining her philosophy more into line with "Simple is good say Matthew Norman Score- 5.25/10
Matthew Norman:- Name:-New Maxin, 3-5 High Street, Kirkcaldy, Fife - Tel: 01592 263406 Review:- The main courses were better. King prawns had been well thawed out and accurately wok-fried to retain that gratifyingly springy texture, and came with straw mushrooms. Szechuan-style spicy chicken had a synthetic chilli flavour but came with nice, crunchy shredded carrot - says Matthew Norman Score- 4.5/10
Jay Rayner: Name:- Angelus, 4 Bathurst Street, London W2 - Tel: 020 7402 0083 Review:- A proselytising sommelier, flavours that tantalise the taste buds for a week and an authentic French feel mean that Angelus is a bristo you'll soon grow to love says Jay Rayner
Matthew Norman:- Name:-Wild Honey, 12 St George Street, London W1 - Tel: 020 7758 9160 Review:- And no wonder, because this is a sparkling newcomer offering thoroughly delicious food surprisingly cheaply, albeit when I asked whether they'd pull the usual trick of hiking the prices by 35% within 30 seconds of the last critic leaving, the manager contented himself with a coy smile. Perhaps they'll wait for the Michelin star instead. It won't be long coming - says Matthew Norman Score- 9/10
Mark Palmer- Are you ready to order Name:- Ednam House Hotel, Bridge Street, Kelso, Roxburghshire - Tel: 01573 224168 Review:- But perhaps what I like most about it is that Donald Trump or Donald Duck could wander in and no one would take much interest, unless of course they were handing out fishing permits for the Junction. Score - 8/10
The Independent
Terry Durack: Name:- Haozhan, 8 Gerrard Street, London W1 -Tel: 020 7434 3838 Review:- First New Fook Lam Moon, now Haozhan – London's Chinatown is at last becoming a fine-dining destination - says Terry Durack.
Score - 15/20
Jay Rayner: Name:- Purnell's, 55 Cornwall Street, Birmingham - Tel: 0121 212 9799 Review:- It takes a special kid of cook to impress with a humble carrot, but that's just what Glynn Purnell is doing. Jay Rayner heads for a first class restaurant in Britains second city.
Matthew Norman:- Name:- Review:- No Review this week
Mark Palmer - Are you ready to order Name:- East Beach Cafe, Littlehampton, West Sussex - Tel: 01903 731903 Review:- Hers is a lot more interesting than mine. In fact, mine is so dull that even the two strips of mackerel seem embarrassed to come out from underneath a pile of indifferent lettuce leaves. I feel like saying: "Don't worry, because I don't really want to eat you." Then I spot a couple of radishes on Joanna's plate that I do want to eat. Unfortunately, they are both partially cooked and perfectly disgusting. Score - 5/10
Jay Rayner: Name:- Vanilla, 131 Great Titchfield Street, London W1 - Tel: 020 3008 7763 Review:- Dizzying decor, gruff service and a silly menu..the team at Vanilla fell through the ice in their quest for a cool new experience. Jay Rayner is in no mood to send out a search party
Matthew Norman:- Name:- Review:- No Review this week
John Walsh:
Name: L'Ail Heure, Place Raimond VII, Beaucaire 30300, France - Tel: 0033 466 5967
Review: In medieval times Beaucaire was the fairground of the Rhône delta, drawing 300,000 people every summer to buy textiles and spices, drink and party their evenings away, entertained by acrobats, giants and performing elephants. Today's tourists head for the canal-side bars – but those in the know tell you to try L'Ail Heure, the coolest eaterie in town.
Jay Rayner:- Name:- Camino, Regent Quarter, Kings Cross, London W1 - Tel: 08446 060 102 Review:- It would be great to have a really good Spanish restaurant on the office doorstep, as a refuge from the murder and the vice. Sure, I may well come here again, but it will only be out of laziness. As endorsements go they don't get much more limp than that.
Tracey MacLeod:
Name: Dean Timpson at the Compleat Angler, Marlow, Bucks - Tel: 01628 405405
Review: Ever wondered why some towns seem to be superserved by good restaurants, while others of similar size suffer a gastronomic drought? How come Oxford, for example, with its affluent and sophisticated population, doesn't sustain a single restaurant of note, while 30 miles away, quaint little Marlow is quietly turning itself into a foodie mecca to rival Ludlow?
Jay Rayner:- Name:- Bincho Yakitori, Oxo Tower, Barge House Street, London SE1 - Tel: 020 7803 0858 Review:- Go somewhere else for ice cream. Drink beer or sake (but not wine), get a table by the window, order carefully and Bincho Yakitori's reason for existing may well become clear. Hell, this restaurant might even survive - Says Jay Rayner
John Walsh:
Name: Wild Honey, 12 St Gerge Street, London - Tel: 020 7758 9160
Review: Wild Honey is the newest offering from Anthony Demetre and Will Smith, whose appealing Arbutus restaurant invigorated the Soho eating scene last year – and the drinking scene too, by offering every wine on its list, even the poshest, in well-priced carafes. I took my agent, David, along to check it out as a suitable venue in which to sweet-talk the next Kiran Desai.
Matthew Norman:- Name:-Baslow Hall, Calver Road, Baslow, Derbyshire - Tel: 01246 583259 Review:- The main course was also a triumph, three cuts of local pig - luxuriantly fatty caramelised belly, sweet and tender roast fillet, and lustrously flavoured braised cheek - coming with a medley of crunchy vegetables (carrots, asparagus and pak choi) in a fine, strong red-wine gravy infused with rosemary. - 9/10
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