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23rd December Restaurant Reviews

The Sunday Times

AA Gill is away:
Kate Spicer:
Name: - 4* Gordon Ramsay in New York, 151 West 54th Street, New York - Tel: 00 1212 468 8888
Review:- Everything here is beautifully executed, but nobody is breaking any new ground. It’s a safe bet for lovely food and, with the fine-dining prices, perhaps that’s what most people who choose to eat here want.
http://www.gordonramsay.com/usrestaurants/

Winners Dinners:-
Name:- Millennium Hotel, 44 Grosvenor Square, London - Tel: 020 7629 9400

Review:- I asked the waiter, “Do you do bread or are the plates decoration?” When bread arrived it was horrific, tasteless muck. I doubt it was made that Sunday. Possibly a week before - says Michael Winner
http://www.millenniumhotels.co.uk

Giles Coren:-
Name:- L'Autre Pied, 5-7 Blandford Street, London W1 - Tel: 020 7486 9696

Review:- With seven purees on the menu, not a lot of chewing has to be done at L’Autre Pied says Giles Coren
http://www.lautrepied.co.uk
Score - 7.25


The Telegraph

Mark Palmer- Are you ready to order
Name:-

Review:- No Review this week

Belinda Richardson - Three of a Kind
Review: -
No Review this week


The Independent

Terry Durack:
Name:-

Review:-
No Review this week


The Observer

Jay Rayner:
Name:-

Review:-
No review this week

Matthew Norman:-
Name:-
Hereford Road, 3 Hereford Road, Westbourne Grove, London W2 4AB - Tel: 020 7727 1144
Review:-
Not, of course, that the boys and girls from Michelin will agree. That lot, they could eat tree until all the stars above go nova, and never so much as smile at the notion - says Matthew Norman
Score- 6/10

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16th December Restaurant Reviews

The Sunday Times

AA Gill:-
Name: -
Review:-

Winners Dinners:-
Name:- Hereford Road, 3 Hereford Road, Westbourne Grove, London W2 4AB - Tel: 020 7727 1144

Review:- The ‘in’ place and, luckily, not out of focus says Michael Winner
http://www.herefordroad.org

Giles Coren:-
Name:- Snazz Sichuan and Fountain - details below:

Review:- As I sit, desperate to start writing, I hear a muttering in my brain of new openings yet unvisited says Giles Coren


Fountain

Fortnum and Mason, 181 Piccadilly, London W1-Tel: 020-7734 8040

Snazz Sichuan
37 Chalton St, London NW1 - Tel: 020-7388 0808

Goldmine
102 Queensway, London W2 - Tel: 020 7792 833


The Telegraph

Mark Palmer- Are you ready to order
Name:-
Kensington Square Kitchen, Clarke's, Timo - Details below:

Review:- Restaurants on London's High Street - Mark Palmer

Kensington Square Kitchen, 9 Kensington Square, London W8 - Tel: 020 7938 2598
Score - 4/10

Clarke's 124 Kensington Church Street, London W8 - Tel: 020 7221 9225
Score - 7/10

Timo, 343 Kensington HIgh Street, London W8 - Tel: 020 7603 3888
Score -8/10

Belinda Richardson - Three of a Kind
Review: -
Belinda Richardson goes in search of three shopper-friendly restaurants.


The Independent

Terry Durack:
Name:- Le Cafe Anglais, 8 Porchester Gardens, London W8 - Tel: 020 7221 1415

Review:-
There is a lot to like at Le Caff – above all, the idea of a restaurant essentially drawn up and driven by a home-grown chef with intelligence and integrity. But it still has a way to go, needing more time to come to grips with the vagaries of the rotisserie, and to bed down its staff. When it does, it could grow into one of the most loved – and luvviest – joints in town says Terry Durack
Score - 15/20
http://www.lecafeanglais.co.uk/



The Observer

Jay Rayner:
Name:- 22 Mill Street, Chagford, Devon - Tel: 01647 432 244

Review:-
Seared foie gras, one of those things every cook thinks they can do but often can't, was cooked with precision and accompanied by soft cubes of Sauternes jelly.
http://www.22millstreetrestaurant.co.uk/

Matthew Norman:-
Name:-
Hibiscus, 29 Maddox Street, London W1- Tel: 020 7629 2999
Review:-
There are those who believe that Claude Bosi's cooking is the future of grand gastronomy in Britain. Myself, I hope and pray it soon becomes the past, because seldom have I encountered a wider chasm between the opulence of a chef's talent and the paucity of joy to be had from his food says Matthew Norman
http://www.hibiscusrestaurant.co.uk/about.htm
6/10

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11th December Restaurant Reviews

The Sunday Times

AA Gill:-
Name: - 3* Le Cafe Anglais, 8 Porchester Gardens, London W2 - Tel: 020 7221 1415
Review:- The meal at Le Cafe Anglais took too long to be served and was just too expensive for the imprecise and clumsy cooking - says A A Gill
http://www.lecafeanglais.co.uk/

Winners Dinners:-
Name:- Bumpkin, 209 Westbourne Park Road, London W11 1EA - Tel: 020 7243 9818

Review:- Eventually my fish and chips arrived. They were totally marvellous. The chips utterly memorable - says Michael Winner
http://www.bumpkinuk.com/

Giles Coren:-
Name:- Kensington Square Kitchen, 9 Kensington Square, London W8 - Tel: 020 7938 2598

Review:- KSK is a canteen for Kensington as it used to be. Rather dainty. Closes at six because nanny wants you home for bathtime says Giles Coren
Score: 6.33
http://www.kensingtonsquarekitchen.co.uk/



The Telegraph

Mark Palmer- Are you ready to order
Name:-
Sevendials Restaurant, 1 Buckingham Place, Seven Dials, Brighton, East Sussex - Tel: 01273 8855555

Review:- Scallops with boudin noir is a clever, old-fashioned main course and the contrast between the fish and the black pudding produces a perfect harmony. This one comes with a delightful pea and mint purée and a lot of mashed potato - says Mark Palmer.
Score -7/10
www.sevendialsrestaurant.co.uk

Belinda Richardson -
Three of a Kind
Review: -
Belinda Richardson goes in search of three restaurants that are seventh heaven.


The Independent

Terry Durack:
Name:-
The Fountain, Fortnum & Mason, 181 Piccadilly, London - Tel: 020 7734 8040

Review:-
Fortnum & Mason has given traditional fare a deliciously knowing tweak at its refitted Fountain eatery
http://www.fortnumandmason.com
Score - 15/20

John Walsh
Name: NorthbankMillennium Bridge, One Paul's Walk, London EC4 - Tel: 020 7329 9299
Review:
We left feeling replete and, by now, half in love with the view of Tate Modern. Northbank is a delightful addition to the London restaurant scene, and I'll be back as soon as possible.


The Observer

Jay Rayner:
Name:- Russel's of Broadway, 20 High Street, Broadway, Worcs - Tel: 01386 853 555

Review:-
All that you need know is the service was cheerful and efficient. Like everything else at Russell's - save for an (almost) forgivable lamb spring roll - it delivers.- says Jay Rayner
http://www.broadway-cotswolds.co.uk/russells.html

Matthew Norman:-
Name:- Patio, 5 Goldhawk Road, London W12 - Tel: 020 8743 5194

Review:-
Whether the reciprocal adoration felt by Patio's regulars makes it all worthwhile, I cannot say. But every time I walk down Goldhawk Road and see this uniquely wonderful little place once again unfilled by paying customers, I am reminded that, while I may yet emulate Winston Churchill by becoming both prime minister and Nobel Laureate for literature, the one thing I will never do is try to run a restaurant.
9/10

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2nd December Restaurant Reviews

The Sunday Times

AA Gill:-
Name: - 1* Divo, 12 Waterloo Place, London SW1 - Tel: 020 7484 1355
Review:- Meritlessly expensive with a bar for vodka drinking and new democratic pickup lines. Go soon – Divo can’t last much longer

Winners Dinners:-
Name:- Lanes Restaurant, Four Seasons Hotel, Hamilton Place, Park Lane, London -Tel: 020 7499 0888

Review:- The Four Seasons restaurant, in spite of a few faults, is a very jolly place to go. I definitely recommend it
http://www.fourseasons.com/london/

Giles Coren:-
Name:- Olivomare, 10 Lower Belgrave Street, SW1 - Tel: 020 7730 9002

Review:- A hundred and fifteen quid for two courses and a half-bottle of wine? They might as well run up a Jolly Roger and come at you with swords
Score: 5.67


The Telegraph

Mark Palmer- Are you ready to order
Name:-
Le Cafe Anglais, Prochester Gardens, London W2 - Tel: 020 7221 1415

Review:- On the way out, we ask what used to occupy this huge space and are told it was a McDonald's. What a triumph for Rowley Leigh. What a triumph for real food.
Score -8/10
www.lecafeanglais.co.uk

Belinda Richardson -
Three of a Kind
Review: -
Belinda Richardson goes in search of three restaurants with Anglo-French alliance


The Independent

Terry Durack:
Name:-
Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester, Park Lane, London W1 - Tel: 020 7629 8866
Review:-
Alain Ducasse has brought his Michelin-starred genius to town – if only he'd left his presumptuous menu behind.says Terry Durack
http://www.alainducasse-dorchester.com/
Score - 16/20

Tracey MacLeod
Name: L'Autre, 5-7 Blandford Street, London Tel: 020 7486 9696
Review:
Our bill came to £116 before service – not a bad price for cooking of this quality, served by a crack front-of-house team. I'm sure L'Autre Pied will find its clientele; people who enjoy high production values without the folderol of fine dining. But I suspect Kevin won't be among them, and I know I won't be.
http://www.lautrepied.co.uk


The Observer

Jay Rayner:
Name:- Bidendum, Michelin Housem 81 Fulham Road, London SW3 - Tel: 020 7581 5817

Review:-
The creme in a creme brulee was fine, though the topping was too thick and a little burnt. A rich baked chocolate and ginger mousse cake was better - says Jay Rayner
http://www.bibendum.co.uk/

Matthew Norman:-
Name:-

Review:-

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25th November Restaurant Reviews

The Sunday Times

AA Gill:-
Name:-
Review:-

Winners Dinners:-
Name:- Great Queen Street, 32 Great Queen Street, London WC2 - Tel: 020 7242 0622

Review:- Great Queen Street is awful, ghastly, ill-run, absurd. For a start this dump is so pretentious it doesn’t put its name or its street number anywhere

Giles Coren:-
Name:- Rhodes W1, Great Cumberland Place, London W1 - Tel: 020 7479 3737

Review:- This is existentialist eating out: it’s expensive, therefore it is a celebration meal
http://www.rhodesw1.com/



The Telegraph

Mark Palmer- Are you ready to order
Name:-
Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester, Park Lane, London W1 - Tel: 020 7629 8866

Review:- Two of us share rum baba and are given a choice of rum. It's with some reluctance that we pass it around the table, but what comes our way in the form of a chocolate praline and orange concoction and a "chocolate and raspberry star" masterpiece is just as good. We even have room for a few pastries and meringues that are laid out on trays beside the table. And we would have taken up the offer of some pudding wine had this not been ruinous enough.
Score -8/10
http://www.alainducasse-dorchester.com/

Belinda Richardson -
Three of a Kind
Review: -
Belinda Richardson goes in search of three hotel hotshots.


The Independent

Terry Durack:
Name:- The Kingham Plough, Kingham, Chipping Norton, Oxfordshire - Tel: 01608 658327

Review:-
At The Kingham Plough, chef Emily Watkins must decide: does she want her food highfalutin or down-to-earth?..says Terry Durack
http://www.thekinghamplough.co.uk/
Score - 17/20


The Observer

Jay Rayner:
Name:-
Hibiscus, 29 Maddox Street, London W1- Tel: 020 7629 2999
Review:-
Hibiscus won 2 Michelin stars in Ludlow. Now it's moved to London its genius is there fore the world to see - says Jay Rayner
http://www.hibiscusrestaurant.co.uk/about.htm

Matthew Norman:-
Name:- Boardeaux Quay, V-Shed, Canons Way, Bristol, Tel: 0117 943 1200

Review:-
In short, this is a gleaming jewel of a restaurant that underpins its principles with flair, imagination and rigorous professionalism, and illustrates the value of buying first-class ingredients and then cooking them with precision but without fuss - says Matthew Norman
http://www.bordeaux-quay.co.uk/

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18th November Restaurant Reviews

The Sunday Times

AA Gill:-
Name:- 4* Hibiscus, 29 Maddox Street, London W1- Tel: 020 7629 2999
Review:- Hibiscus is a dining room that has evolved from Neanderthal Shropshire to a gallstone’s throw from Vogue House..says AA Gill
http://www.hibiscusrestaurant.co.uk/about.htm

Winners Dinners:-
Name:- Fait Maison, 3 Strattford Road, Kensington, London W8 - Tel: 0207 937 2777

Review:- As I walked towards Fait Maison the lady chef, Fatima Lakhdar, got out of her car. That’s great, I’m going in to lunch and the chef’s on the pavement, I thought..says Michael Winner
http://www.fait-maison.co.uk/main.htm

Giles Coren:-
Name:-
Hibiscus, 29 Maddox Street, London W1- Tel: 020 7629 2999
Review:- I had rose veal, which had come all the way from Shropshire. That'll learn it
http://www.hibiscusrestaurant.co.uk/about.htm



The Telegraph

Mark Palmer- Are you ready to order
Name:-
The Foundary Wine Bar & Restaurant, 1 Saw Mill Yard, Round Foundary, Water Lane, Leeds - Tel: 01132 450390

Review:- I start with "salmon three ways", under which is written "gravadlax, smoked & potted". It's fine in a retro, gentleman's club sort of way. But Joanna's crispy belly of pork with spiced red cabbage is far more interesting, albeit a whopper of a starter. The pork is arguably a touch too dry, but the crackling is, well, cracking, with a perfect lining of fat under it.
Score -7/10
www.thefoundrywinebar.co.uk

Belinda Richardson - Three of a Kind
Review: -
Belinda Richardson goes in search of three Cool Britannia restaurants...


The Independent

Terry Durack:
Name:- Hibiscus, 29 Maddox Street, London W1 - Tel:
020 7629 2999
Review:-
Bosi is an effortless cook, instinctively knowing how to exploit natural flavour and remain in the modern idiom without being silly. The food is polished yet personal, graceful yet satiating. This is a small, fully formed, family-run restaurant of great charm. If London knows what's good for it, it won't let it out of its clutches..says Terry Durack
http://www.hibiscusrestaurant.co.uk/about.htm
Score - 17/20



The Observer

Jay Rayner:
Name:- Texture, 34 Portman Street, London W1 - Tel: 020 7224 0028

Review:-
This is a smart, urban and urbane modern restaurant. The food is complex without losing sight of the imperative of the central ingredient. It is also well priced. - says Jay Rayner
http://www.texture-restaurant.co.uk/

Matthew Norman:-
Name:- Menier Chocolate Factory, 51/53 Southwark Street, London SE1 - Tel: 020 7378 1712

Review:-
The soup wasn't great, in truth, but in contrast my pork and tarragon terrine with crostini was so rustically delicious, and was accompanied by such a good, spicy fig compote, that I completely forgot my mild phobia of the lumpy texture until my plate had been cleared.,.....- says Matthew Norman
http://www.menierchocolatefactory.com/

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11th November Restaurant Reviews

The Sunday Times

AA Gill:-
Name:- 3* - Hereford Road, 3 Hereford Road, Westbourne Grove, London W2 - Tel: 020 7727 1144
Review:- The faggots should have been raucous, gay offal bollocks wrapped in fatty caul and doused in a gravy made out of mink thong
http://www.herefordroad.org/

Winners Dinners:-
Name:- Brinkleys, 47 Hollywood Road, Little Chelsea, London SW10 9HX - Tel: 020 7351 1683

Review:- Forget all I said about the hamburger. It was brilliant. Brinkley's restaurant is totally superb
http://www.brinkleys.com/

Giles Coren:-
Name:- Divo, 12 Waterloo Place, London SW1 - Tel: 020 7484 1365
Review:- Tallulah didn’t say ‘a-woo-gah’ when she tasted the beluga – a shame when you’ve spent £320
http://www.divo-restaurant.com/



The Telegraph

Mark Palmer- Are you ready to order
Name:-
Bell's Diner, 1-3 York Road, Montpelier, Bristol - Tel: 0117 924 0357

Review:- So, Hibiscus is up and running at last. It won't be long before the Michelin men are heading for Maddox Street. I suspect they'll like the food here more than I do, especially if they're partial to ice cream.
Score -7/10
http://www.bellsdiner.com

Belinda Richardson - Three of a Kind
Review: -
Belinda Richardson goes in search of restaurants with an appeal of bells...

The Independent

Terry Durack:
Name:-

Review:-

Score -


John Walsh:
Name:
Hibiscus. 29 Maddox Street, London W1 - Tel: 020 7629 2999
Review: A chef with Balls
http://www.hibiscusrestaurant.co.uk/about.htm

101 Star Bars
Drunken Duck, Ambleside, Cumbria - Tel: 01539 436347


The Observer

Jay Rayner:
Name:- McCoys Rooftop at the Baltic, Gateshead, Tyne & Wear - Tel: 0191 440 4949

Review:-
I have seen scallops and cauliflower puree dancing together all over the country, and it is a combination that works. Here it was a stumble rather than something graceful. The scallops, though accurately cooked, were over-seasoned, and the purees lacked richness - says Jay Rayner

Matthew Norman:-
Name:- Brian Maule at Chardon D'Or, 176 West Regent Stree, Glasgow - Tel: 0141 248 3801

Review:-
"There then arrived a dish of such majesty that all previous irritations momentarily evaporated. "Icelandic lamb (from Skagafjör...ur)" was its name,.....- says Matthew Norman
9/10

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4th November Restaurant Reviews

The Sunday Times

AA Gill:-
Name:- 3* - Hache Burger Connoisseurs, 329-331 Fulham Road, London SW10- Tel: 020 7823 3515
Review:- Best were the prices. Burgers ranged from just over £6 to just over £8. If not great value, then definitely value
http://www.hacheburgers.com

Winners Dinners:-
Name:- Ognisko, 55 Exhibition Road, London SW7 2PN - Tel: 020 7589 4635

Review:- If they can’t deliver good borscht in a Polish restaurant what hope is there for the world?
http://www.ognisko.com

Giles Coren:-
Name:- Texture, 34 Portman Square, London W1H 7BY - Tel: 020 7224 0028
Review:- Emulsions you find only in modern European restaurants and Dulux paint tins
http://www.texture-restaurant.co.uk/



The Telegraph

Mark Palmer- Are you ready to order
Name:-
Hibiscus. 29 Maddox Street, London W1 - Tel: 020 7629 2999

Review:- So, Hibiscus is up and running at last. It won't be long before the Michelin men are heading for Maddox Street. I suspect they'll like the food here more than I do, especially if they're partial to ice cream.
http://www.hibiscusrestaurant.co.uk/about.htm
Score -5/10


Belinda Richardson - Three of a Kind
Review: -
Belinda Richardson goes in search of three different types of relocation, relocation...

The Independent

Terry Durack:
Name:- Hereford, 3 Hereford Road, London W2 - Tel: 020 7727 1144

Review:-
When at first the former St John head chef did not succeed, there was only one thing to do... try, try again says Terry Durack
Score - 15/20


Tracey MacLeod:
Name: Hereford Road, 3 Hereford Road, London W2 - Tel: 020 7727 1144

Review: Anoffally big venture

101 Star Bars
961 Beer, nest to the Electricite du Liban building, Gemmayzeh, Beruit


The Observer

Jay Rayner:
Name:- Divo, 12 Waterloo PLace, London SW1 - Tel: 020 7484 1355

Review:-
I had Grandmother's Golubzi, which sounds like an ailment of old age: floppy white cabbage leaves, wrapped around under-seasoned pork mince beneath a gloopy tomato sauce. I wish grandma well. - says Jay Rayner

Matthew Norman:-
Name:- Texture, 34 Portman Square, London W1 - Tel: 020 7224 0028

Review:-
"There then arrived a dish of such majesty that all previous irritations momentarily evaporated. "Icelandic lamb (from Skagafjör...ur)" was its name,.....- says Matthew Norman
6.75/10

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28th October Restaurant Reviews

The Sunday Times

AA Gill:-
Name:- 2* - The Butcher & Grill, 39-41 Parkgate Road, Battersea, London SW11 - Tel: 020 7924 3999
Review:- This place serves a burger worth a detour, if you’re the sort of person who makes detours for burgers. If you tip, leave cash

Winners Dinners:-
Name:- Rhubarb Catering Services

Review:- This was a very good meal. Miraculous really when you’re chucking it out to 250 people at more or less the same time

Giles Coren:-
Name:- Hereford Road, 3 Hereford Road, London W2 - Tel: 020 7727 1144
Review:- We tore at the whole oxtail like pterodactyls, plucking and scraping the meat and fat
Score - 8


The Telegraph

Mark Palmer- Are you ready to order
Name:-
The Rocks, Marine Road, Dunbar, East Lothian - Tel: 01368 862287

Review:- Perfectly cooked, it comes with thick-cut chips stacked up like bales of straw. They remind me of that game called Jenga, popular on the dinner party circuit in the 1990s. Fried haddock in tempura batter is just as big and just as satisfactory.
Score -7/10

Belinda Richardson - Three of a Kind
Review: -
Belinda Richardson discovers food and fun on the rocks

The Independent

Terry Durack:
Name:- Universal Republic, Courtyard, Palmer Street, Darlington, Sydney, Australia - Tel: 00612 9331 0709

Review:-
Some say Sydney isn't the culinary hotspot it once was – that's because they've never eaten at Universal says Terry Durack
Score - 12/20


John Walsh:
Name: Caldesi in Campagna, Old Mill Lane, Bray - Tel: 01628 788 500

Review: Tuscany on Thames

101 Star Bars
The Gun, 27 Coldharbour, Docklands, London E14 - Tel: 020 7515 5222


The Observer

Jay Rayner:
Name:-
The Dining Room at the Railway Hotel, Preston Street, Faversham, Kent - Tel: 01795 533 173
Review:-
The Dining Room, a new venture, is the creature of two young chefs. Anthony North learnt his chops in a series of London restaurants, including under Michel Bourdin at the old Connaught, when they still used to set fire to things tableside. - says Jay Rayner

Matthew Norman:-
Name:- Haozhan, 8 Gerrard Street, London W1 - Tel: 020 7434 3838

Review:-
"That was an excellent lunch," said my friend, offering me a lift in his cab as we left, but although he was right, I felt strangely unsatisfied and headed for the nearest casino in search of the punishment that Haozhan had so wilfully failed to provide - says Matthew Norman
8/10

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21st October Restaurant Reviews

The Sunday Times

AA Gill:-
Name:- 5* - Carpenter's Arms, 91 Black Lion Lane, London W6 - Tel: 0871 703 2881
Review:- This is a kitchen that wholly succeeds in doing what it sets out to do, in a room that is gently hospitable

Winners Dinners:-
Name:- Oxford Union

Review:- The food can be summed up in one word: pretty awful. That’s two words. If I’d gone to Oxford I’d have been clever

Giles Coren:-
Name:- Wahaca, 66 Chandos Place, London WC2 - Tel: 020 7240 1883
Review:- There were so many tortilla chips when we sat down, I could have left, stuffed, without ordering
Score - 7.25


The Telegraph

Mark Palmer- Are you ready to order
Name:-
The Norfolk Riddle, 2 Wells Road, Little Walsingham, Norfolk - Tel: 01328 821 903

Review:- No service charge of any kind is added to our bill, so we leave a generous tip. We also leave with an almighty spring in our step. This is the sort of restaurant that restores your faith - in everything.
Score -8/10

Belinda Richardson - Three of a Kind
Review: -
Belinda Richardson goes in search of some fishy business.

The Independent

Terry Durack:
Name:-
The Only Running Footman, 5 Charles Street, LondonW1 - Tel: 020 7499 2988
Review:-
A wonderfully welcoming pub...on one level, at least says Terry Durack
Score - 12/20


TRacey MacLeod:
Name: Print, 56-58 Stanley Street, Liverpool - Tel: 0870 033 4450

Review: Mersey mission

101 Star Bars
The Pyramid Bar, Nile Hilton, Cairo, Egypt - Tel: 0020 2578 0444


The Observer

Jay Rayner:
Name:- Vanilla Black, 26 Swingate, York - Tel: 01904 676 750

Review:-
The part of this meal which really indicated a strong hand in the kitchen was the smallest: a tiny pot of home-made brown sauce to go with my gypsy toast - says Jay Rayner

Matthew Norman:-
Name:- The Elephant, 3-4 Beacon Terrace, Harbourside, Torquay - Tel: 01803 200044

Review:-
He paid up and headed for the car, gratefully sucking in the aromas of sea and stale chip fat, and agreeing that, for all the obvious failings in cooking and service at a fictional hotel up the road, we'd take the fiascoid hilarity of Gourmet Night at Fawlty Towers over another meal at the "Pretentious? Moi?", Michelin-fixated Elephant any time. says Matthew Norman


14th October Restaurant Reviews

The Sunday Times

AA Gill:-
Name:- The Pleasure Principle
Review:- An unashamedly intolerant perfectionist - the country's most revered restaurant critic talks about his time at the table

Winners Dinners:-
Name:- Al-Dar III, 221 Lebanese Restaurant, 221 Kensington High Street, London W8 6SG - Tel: 020 7938 1547

Review:- Ever since I discovered Arab food when I made a movie in Israel in 1987, I’ve been a great admirer of it

Giles Coren:-
Name:- Angelus, 4 Bathurst Street, London W2 - Tel: 020 7402 0083
Review:- The toast broke first, then the knife, then the plate, and still the duck terrine stood firm
Score - 5.33


The Telegraph

Mark Palmer- Are you ready to order
Name:-
La Tour d'Argent, 15-17 Quai de la Tournelle, 75005 Paris - Tel: 00331 43 542331

Review:- The duck is in slices, too, and covered in a thick brown gravy containing the blood and juices from the crushed duckling. No veg. The meat is wonderfully tender and the jus miraculously lighter than it looks. I have enjoyed it but am ready to move on. But along comes another plate, carrying the legs of the same bird, but done in a more crispy-duck style.
Score - 7/10

Belinda Richardson - Three of a Kind
Review: -
Belinda Richardson goes in search of Haute Paris

The Independent

Terry Durack:
Name:-
Texture, 34 Portman Square, London W1 - Tel: 020 7224 0028
Review:-
Want to experience the future of gastronomy? It's there for the tasting at the Nordic-influenced Texture says Terry Durack
Score - 16/20


John Walsh:
Name:
Bincho Yakitori, Oxo Tower, 2nd Floor, Bargehouse Street, London SE1 - Tel: 020 7803 0858
Review: A flaming novelty

101 Star Bars
The Exhibit, 12 Balham Station Road, London SW12 - Tel: 020 8772 6556


The Observer

Jay Rayner:
Name:-
St John, 26 St John Street, London EC1 - Tel: 020 7251 0848
Review:-
There are few parts of the animal from intestines to marrow bone, that haven't found their way on to a plate at St John. Jay Rayner pens a love letter to a champion of the British farmyard

Matthew Norman:-
Name:- Dinings, 22 Harcourt Street, London W1 - Tel: 020 7723 0666

Review:-
How far this coloured our judgment of the main courses I'm not sure, but we raved about them all.
Score- 8.5/10

Top


7th October Restaurant Reviews

The Sunday Times

AA Gill:-
Name:- (* 1 star)Crescent House, 41 Tavistock Crescent, London W11 - Tel: 020 7727 9250
Review:- This restaurant is everything that the Ring cycle isn’t: small, mean, flashy, trite, fashionable and with rubbish music

Winners Dinners:-
Name:- La Petite Maison, 54 Brooks Mews, London W1K 4EG - Tel: 020 7495 4774

Review:- It's famous for truffles but all the dishes with truffles were off. I ask you? Madness

Giles Coren:-
Name:- Bincho Yakitori, Oxo Tower, 2nd Floor, Bargehouse Street, London SE1 - Tel: 020 7803 0858
Review:- The Japanese were eating like this when the spanish were still short and hairy
Score - 5.75


The Telegraph

Mark Palmer- Are you ready to order
Name:-
Marco at Stamford Bridge, Fulham Road, London SW6 - Tel: 020 7915 2929

Review:- We also have Marco's famous and beautifully conceived braised pig's trotter stuffed with morel mushrooms and his pigeon from Bresse, with yet more foie gras and buttery mashed potato of the kind that will remind people to take their statins.
Score - 7/10

Belinda Richardson - Three of a Kind
Review: -
Belinda Richardson goes in seach of some Marco P
ierre White magic

The Independent

Terry Durack:
Name:- Kenza, 10 Devonshire Square, London EC2 - Tel: 020 7929 5533

Review:-
Belly dancers mingle with waiters at Kenza. But can the Middle Eastern fare satisfy our reviewer's own stomach? says Terry Durack
Score - 13/20


Tracey MacLeod:
Name: Texture, 34 Portman Square, London W1 - Tel: 020 7224 0028
Review:
To the Manior born

101 Star Bars
The Canny Man's, 237 Morningside Road, Edinburgh - Tel: 0131 447 1484


The Observer

Jay Rayner:
Name:- The Rosendale, 65 Rosendale Road, London SE21 - Tel: 020 8670 0812

Review:-
Hip and handsome, with great wines, the Rosendale lacks the one simple ingredient of a knockout gastropib says Jay Rayner

Matthew Norman:-
Name:- Rafters, 220 Oakbrook Road, Sheffield, South Yorkshire - Tel: 0114230 4819

Review:-
Best of all though - and by some distance - were those puddings: an incredibly good, intensely flavoured Seville orange tart with dark chocolate sorbet, and an amazingly delicate "coffee essence panacotta" with mascarpone milk and praline ice cream that showed off the chef's imagination and technical adroitness to the full.
Score- 7.25/10


30th September Restaurant Reviews

The Sunday Times

AA Gill:-
Name:- (no stars) Dinings, 22 Harcourt Street, London W1 - Tel: 020 7723 0666
Review:- The sushi was no better than you’d get from a chill-cabinet bento box in a service-station supermarket

Winners Dinners:-
Name:- St John Bread and Wine, 26 St John Street, London EC1M 4AY - Tel: 020 7251 0848

Review:- I care not one jot whether the manager, Esther Harding, recognised me. I look in the mirror and frequently don’t recognise myself

Giles Coren:-
Name:- Cay Tre Vietnamese Kitchen, 301 Old Street, London EC1 - Tel: 020 7729 8662
Review:- Chicken gizzard and muop is a hell of a name, but english people don't like eating gizzards
Score - 8.5


The Telegraph

Mark Palmer- Are you ready to order
Name:-
Haozhan in Chinatown, 8 Gerrard Street, London W1 - Tel: 020 7434 3838

Review:- We all agree that the beef rib-eye is a head-turner and even though we've ordered far too many dishes no one can resist the Thai Gai Lan (broccoli with minced salted fish), although our single portion of rice survives untouched.
Score - 7/10

Belinda Richardson - Three of a Kind
Review: -
Belinda Richardson goes in search of new-wave Chinese Restaurants


The Independent

Terry Durack:
Name:- Angelus, 4 Bathurst Street, London W2 - Tel: 020 7402 0083

Review:-
By definition, a signature dish is something unique, indelibly linked with a particular chef or restaurant. Sometimes it is an inadvertent icon, becoming a "signature" through the sheer number of times it is written on the order pad.
Score - 13/20


John Walsh:
Name: Kenza, 10 Devonshire Gardens, London EC2 - Tel: 020 7929 5533
Review:
Put it like this. You enter the place thinking about Scheherazade and the 1001 Nights. You leave feeling you've been to a provincial performance (with interval snacks) of Kismet.

101 Star Bars #29
Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem, Brewhouse Yard, Nottingham - Tel: 0115 947 3171



The Observer

Jay Rayner:
Name:-
Haozhan in Chinatown, 8 Gerrard Street, London W1 - Tel: 020 7434 3838
Review:-
The generous slabs of fish had first been sealed off, but so sensitively that as you cut through the outer skin, the huge flakes of pearly fish fell apart. The XO part of this plateful simply cut through the richness. I would come here for this dish alone says Jay Rayner

Matthew Norman:-
Name:- Skylon, Royal Festival Hall, London SE1 - Tel: 020 7654 7800

Review:-
Reports suggest that the less poncy food served in the other sections is better and cheaper than this more exhibitionist stuff, which makes me think Puolakka might consider refining her philosophy more into line with "Simple is good say Matthew Norman
Score- 5.25/10

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23rd September Restaurant Reviews

The Sunday Times

AA Gill:-
Name:- Angelus, 4 Bathurst Street, London W2 - Tel: 020 7402 0083
Review:- A worthwhile local restaurant. If you go, don’t be mean to the manager. He is like nothing on earth

Winners Dinners:-
Name:- La Pinede in Cap d'Ail, 10 Boulevard de la mer 06320 Cap d'Ail, France - Tel: 0033 493 783710

Review:- This is a very pleasant restaurant in a beautiful 'I do like to be beside the seaside' setting. I thoroughly recommend it.

Giles Coren:-
Name:- A Scottish Odyssey
Review:- Various as Above
Score -


The Telegraph

Mark Palmer- Are you ready to order
Name:-
Khushi's, 9 Victoria Street, Edinburgh - Tel: 0131 220 0057

Review:- Khushi's has a big reputation in Edinburgh, but I'm not sure it's doing enough to warrant it. You come here to have fun, to tell jokes and roar with laughter and argue about whose turn it is to fetch and carry jugs of Carlsberg from the boozer.
Score - 5/10

Belinda Richardson - Three of a Kind
Review: -
Belinda Richardson goes in search of restaurants long currying favour.

The Independent

Terry Durack:
Name:- Bombay Brasserie, Courtfield Close, Courtfield Road, London SW7 - Tel: 020 7370 4040

Review:-
The Bombay Brasserie is the grand old man of London curry houses – unfortunately age has wearied him - says Terry Durack
Score - 12/20


Tracey MacLeod:
Name: Acorn House, 69 Swinton Street, London WC1 - Tel: 020 7812 1842
Review:
Jolly Green Giant

101 Star Bars #28
Albannach Bar, 66 Trafalgar Square, London WC2 - Tel: 020 7930 0066


The Observer

Jay Rayner:
Name:- The Company Shed, 129 Coast Road, West Mersea, Essex - Tel: 01206 382 700

Review:-
No wine, no waiters, no finery...just a weatherbeaten BYO beside the briny. But with seafood this good there's not better place to be stranded at high tide says Jay Rayner

Matthew Norman:-
Name:- New Maxin, 3-5 High Street, Kirkcaldy, Fife - Tel: 01592 263406

Review:-
The main courses were better. King prawns had been well thawed out and accurately wok-fried to retain that gratifyingly springy texture, and came with straw mushrooms. Szechuan-style spicy chicken had a synthetic chilli flavour but came with nice, crunchy shredded carrot - says Matthew Norman
Score- 4.5/10

16th September Restaurant Reviews

The Sunday Times

AA Gill:-
Name:-
Review:- No Review this week

Winners Dinners:-
Name:- Belvedere, off Abbotsbury Road, Holland Park, London W8 - Tel: 020 7602 1238

Review:- Not only can you eat well at the Belvedere, it has a car park, which is a great help- says Michael Winner

Giles Coren:-
Name:- One-o-One, Sheraton Park Tower Hotel, 101 Knightsbridge, London SW1 -Tel: 020 7290 7101

Review:-
This is food for foodies, for those who want to be astonished at what is placed on their plate - says Giles Coren
Score - 8.5


The Telegraph

Mark Palmer- Are you ready to order
Name:-
Bowler Bar & Grill, 2a Pond Place, London SW3 - Tel: 020 7589 5876

Review:- Bowler is fine. It's an obliging resident in one of the richest neighbourhoods in the world and I hope it survives.
Score - 6/10

Belinda Richardson - Three of a Kind
Review: -
Belinda
goes in search of restaurants that are old friends.

The Independent

Terry Durack:
Name:- Great Queen Street, Great Queen Street, London WC2 - Tel: 020 7242 0622

Review:-
Smart chef, seasonal menu, no gimmicks – Great Queen Street has all the makings a great British bistro.
Score - 14/20


Tracey MacLeod:
Name: Alimentum, 152-154 Hills Road, Cambridge - Tel: 01223 413000
Review:
Worth a punt?

101 Star Bars #27
Malmaison Hotel, 3 Oxford Castle, New Road, Oxford - Tel: 01865 268400


The Observer

Jay Rayner:
Name:- Angelus, 4 Bathurst Street, London W2 - Tel: 020 7402 0083

Review:-
A proselytising sommelier, flavours that tantalise the taste buds for a week and an authentic French feel mean that Angelus is a bristo you'll soon grow to love says Jay Rayner

Matthew Norman:-
Name:- Wild Honey, 12 St George Street, London W1 - Tel: 020 7758 9160

Review:-
And no wonder, because this is a sparkling newcomer offering thoroughly delicious food surprisingly cheaply, albeit when I asked whether they'd pull the usual trick of hiking the prices by 35% within 30 seconds of the last critic leaving, the manager contented himself with a coy smile. Perhaps they'll wait for the Michelin star instead. It won't be long coming - says Matthew Norman
Score- 9/10

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9th September Restaurant Reviews

The Sunday Times

AA Gill:-
Name:- **** - One-o-One, Sheraton Park Tower, 101 Knightsbridge, London SW1 - Tel: 020 7290 7107
Review:- The room threatens pretentious haute twinkiness, but, in the event, the service was attentive without being cloying

Winners Dinners:-
Name:- Rhodes W1 Brasserie, The Cumberland Hotel, Great Cumberland Place, London W1 - Tel: 020 7479 3838

Review:- Gary, I don’t know what your fine dining is like. But your simple shopper’s lunch menu is a triumph - says Michael Winner

Giles Coren:-
Name:- Hammers & Pincers, 5 East Road, Wymeswold, Leicestershire - Tel: 01509 880735

Review:-
The tower of crab may well have been cornish, but it still gets short shrift from Leviticus - says Giles Coren
Score - 8.5


The Telegraph

Mark Palmer- Are you ready to order
Name:-
Ednam House Hotel, Bridge Street, Kelso, Roxburghshire - Tel: 01573 224168

Review:- But perhaps what I like most about it is that Donald Trump or Donald Duck could wander in and no one would take much interest, unless of course they were handing out fishing permits for the Junction.
Score - 8/10


The Independent

Terry Durack:
Name:- Haozhan, 8 Gerrard Street, London W1 -Tel: 020 7434 3838

Review:-
First New Fook Lam Moon, now Haozhan – London's Chinatown is at last becoming a fine-dining destination - says Terry Durack.
Score - 15/20


John Walsh:
Name: Wahaca, Chandon Place, London WC2 - Tel: 020 7240 1883
Review:
Not much fire in the belly

101 Star Bars #26
Artesian Bar, Langham Hotel, 1c Portland Place, Regent Street, London W1


The Observer

Jay Rayner:
Name:- Purnell's, 55 Cornwall Street, Birmingham - Tel: 0121 212 9799

Review:-
It takes a special kid of cook to impress with a humble carrot, but that's just what Glynn Purnell is doing. Jay Rayner heads for a first class restaurant in Britains second city.

Matthew Norman:-
Name:-

Review:-
No Review this week

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2nd September Restaurant Reviews

The Sunday Times

AA Gill
Name:-
Review:- No Review this week

Winners Dinners:-
Name:- The Goring, Beeston Place, Grosvenor Gardens, London SW1 - Tel: 020 7396 9000

Review:- I’ll go to the Goring and murder it, I thought. You might call that unfair – so what? Fair is boring

Giles Coren:-
Name:- Vanilla, 131 Great Titchfield Street, London W1 - Tel: 020 3008 7763

Review:-
When a bar recommendation praises the smoothness of the floor you do have to worry


The Telegraph

Mark Palmer - Are you ready to order
Name:-
East Beach Cafe, Littlehampton, West Sussex - Tel: 01903 731903

Review:- Hers is a lot more interesting than mine. In fact, mine is so dull that even the two strips of mackerel seem embarrassed to come out from underneath a pile of indifferent lettuce leaves. I feel like saying: "Don't worry, because I don't really want to eat you." Then I spot a couple of radishes on Joanna's plate that I do want to eat. Unfortunately, they are both partially cooked and perfectly disgusting.
Score - 5/10


The Independent

Terry Durack:
Name:- Purnell's, 55 Cornwall Street, Birmingham - Tel: 0121 212 9799

Review:-
Chef Glynn Purnell brilliantly combines culinary sophistication with the flavours of his Birmingham childhood - says Terry Durack.
Score - 16/20


John Walsh:
Name: The Rosendale, 65 Rosendale, West Dulwich, London SE21 - Tel: 020 8670 0812
Review:
If I lived in Notting Hill or Islington or Limehouse, I’d probably groan at the prospect of voyaging to darkest south London to a gastropub dinner.

101 Star Bars #25
Shunt Lounge, Joiner Street, London SE1 - Tel: 0207 378 7776


The Observer

Jay Rayner:
Name:- Vanilla, 131 Great Titchfield Street, London W1 - Tel: 020 3008 7763

Review:-
Dizzying decor, gruff service and a silly menu..the team at Vanilla fell through the ice in their quest for a cool new experience. Jay Rayner is in no mood to send out a search party

Matthew Norman:-
Name:-

Review:-
No Review this week

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26th August Restaurant Reviews

The Sunday Times

AA Gill
Name:- **** - The Chasers, Stoke Road, Stokeinteignhead, Devon - Tel: 01626 873670
Review:- Service was charming. Prices were low. And the food? Well, the food, we all agreed, was just lovely

Winners Dinners:-
Name:- Awana Restaurant, 85 Sloane Avenue, London SW3 - Tel: 020 7584 8880

Review:- Without being pretentious, Awana is simply terrific. With service far more efficient and charming than at most grander places

Giles Coren:-
Name:- Kiasu, 48 Queensway, London W2 - Tel: 020 7727 8810

Review:-
I didn’t think anything was amiss until the ladies started to come in, one by one, like in miss world


The Telegraph

Mark Palmer - Are you ready to order
Name:-
Bincho Yakitori, 2nd Floor, Oxo Tower Wharf, Barge House Street, London SE1 - Tel: 020 8992 2848

Review:- 7/10


The Independent

Terry Durack:
Name:- One-o-One, Sheraton Tower Hotel, 101 Knigthsbridge, London SW1 - Tel: 020 7290 7101

Review:-
Inside a tower in west london, you'll find an ambitious chef recreating the finest flavours of his native Brittany - says Terry Durack. Score - 16/20

Tracey MacLeod:
Name: Vanilla, 131 Great Titchfield Street, London W1 - Tel: 020 3008 7763
Review:
A paler shade of white

101 Star Bars #24
Oloroso, 33 Castle Street, Edinburgh - Tel: 0131 226 7614


The Observer

Jay Rayner:-
Name:-

Review:-
No Review this week

Matthew Norman:-
Name:-

Review:-
No Review this week

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19th August Restaurant Reviews

The Sunday Times

AA Gill
Name:- ** Wahaca, 66 Chandos Place, London WC2 - Tel: 020 7240 1883
Review:- Wahaca isn’t bad, but with a little extra effort it could be lovely. Where is the fresh ceviche?

Winners Dinners:-
Name:- Brunello, Bagliono Hotel, 60 Hyde Park Gate, Kensington, London SW7 - Tel: 020 7368 5700

Review:- It’s one of those pretentious places that thinks it’s very chi-chi but is, in fact, beyond belief abysmal

Giles Coren:-
Name:- Geale's 2 Farmer Street, London W8 - Tel: 020 7727 7528

Review:-
Geale’s looks reasonably presentable from the outside – but then so does Robert Mugabe


The Telegraph

Mark Palmer - Are you ready to order
Name:-
The Vineyard at Stockcross, Newbury - Tel: 01635 528770

Review:- 7/10


The Independent

Terry Durack:
Name:- Pinchito Tapas, 332 Featherstone Street, London EC1 - Tel: 020 7490 0121

Review:-
Terry Durack says - At its best, the Basque form of tapas can be an art form, but you have to find it first... 11/20

John Walsh:
Name: L'Ail Heure, Place Raimond VII, Beaucaire 30300, France - Tel: 0033 466 5967
Review:
In medieval times Beaucaire was the fairground of the Rhône delta, drawing 300,000 people every summer to buy textiles and spices, drink and party their evenings away, entertained by acrobats, giants and performing elephants. Today's tourists head for the canal-side bars – but those in the know tell you to try L'Ail Heure, the coolest eaterie in town.

101 Star Bars #23
Di Rienzo's Cafe, Piazza della Rotonda 8-9, Rome - Tel: 0039 6 686909


The Observer

Jay Rayner:-
Name:- Camino, Regent Quarter, Kings Cross, London W1 - Tel: 08446 060 102

Review:-
It would be great to have a really good Spanish restaurant on the office doorstep, as a refuge from the murder and the vice. Sure, I may well come here again, but it will only be out of laziness. As endorsements go they don't get much more limp than that.

Matthew Norman:-
Name:-

Review:-

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12th August Restaurant Reviews

The Sunday Times

AA Gill
Name:- West Beach, Pier Approach, Bournemouth, Dorset - Tel: 01202 587785

Review:-
The prices are beyond belief for Bournemouth, but for the non-student they’re very good value

Winners Dinners:-
Name:- La Poule au Pot, 231 Ebury Street, London SW3 - Tel: 020 7730 7763

Review:- This rabbit was bionic. I mean enormous. It was the sort of rabbit you might have seen in a 1950s horror film

Giles Coren:-
Name:- R.E.D., 300 Kentish Town Road, London NW5 - Tel: 020 7482 7300

Review:-
This is a classy café operating good sourcing practice in an area which is ready, God knows, for something upmarket. Especially now that I’m leaving.


The Telegraph

Mark Palmer - Are you ready to order
Name:-
Llys Meddyg, East Street, Newport, Pembrokeshire - Tel: 01239 820008
Review:- 7/10


The Independent

Terry Durack:
Name:- Wild Honey, 12 St George Street, London W1 - Tel: 020 7758 9160

Review:-
With their new venture Wild Honey, the owners of Arbutus have hit on a formula – and it's a winning one - 15/20

Tracey MacLeod:
Name: Dean Timpson at the Compleat Angler, Marlow, Bucks - Tel: 01628 405405
Review:
Ever wondered why some towns seem to be superserved by good restaurants, while others of similar size suffer a gastronomic drought? How come Oxford, for example, with its affluent and sophisticated population, doesn't sustain a single restaurant of note, while 30 miles away, quaint little Marlow is quietly turning itself into a foodie mecca to rival Ludlow?

101 Star Bars #22
Waterstone's, 5th View Bar, Piccadilly, London W1 - Tel: 020 7851 2433


The Observer

Jay Rayner:-
Name:- Bincho Yakitori, Oxo Tower, Barge House Street, London SE1 - Tel: 020 7803 0858

Review:-
Go somewhere else for ice cream. Drink beer or sake (but not wine), get a table by the window, order carefully and Bincho Yakitori's reason for existing may well become clear. Hell, this restaurant might even survive - Says Jay Rayner

Matthew Norman:-
Name:-

Review:-

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5th August Restaurant Reviews

The Sunday Times

AA Gill
Name:- Brumus, Haymarket Hotel, 1 Suffolk Place, London SW8 - Tel: 020 7470 4000

Review:-
The restaurant is dark, but not dark enough and the prices are immaterial because you’re never going to eat here

Winners Dinners:-
Name:- Rules, 35 Maiden Lane, Covent Garden, London WC2E 7LB - Tel: 0207 836 5314

Review:- One of my previous employers told me: "You can always judge a restaurant by the bread." In that case Rules was stone dead

Giles Coren:-
Name:- Wild Honey, 12 George Street, London W1 - Tel: 020 7758 9160

Review:-
When it comes to accusations of excessive largeness, pig's heads are a bit of an easy target


The Telegraph

Mark Palmer - Are you ready to order
Name:-
La Bécasse, 17 Corve Street, Ludlow - Tel: 01584 872325
Review:- 7/10


The Independent

Terry Durack:
Name:- Bincho Yakitori, Oxo Tower Wharf, London SE1 - Tel: 020 7803 0858

Review:-
With a summer bereft of barbecues, hearty Japanese eatery Bincho Yakitori might relight your fire - 13/20

John Walsh:
Name: Wild Honey, 12 St Gerge Street, London - Tel: 020 7758 9160
Review:
Wild Honey is the newest offering from Anthony Demetre and Will Smith, whose appealing Arbutus restaurant invigorated the Soho eating scene last year – and the drinking scene too, by offering every wine on its list, even the poshest, in well-priced carafes. I took my agent, David, along to check it out as a suitable venue in which to sweet-talk the next Kiran Desai.

101 Star Bars #21
The UFO Bar, Novy Most, Bratislava - Tel: (02) 6252 0300


The Observer

Jay Rayner:-
Name:- Donna Margherita, 183 Lavender Hill, London SW11 - Tel: 020 7228 2660

Review:-
When one of Britains finest bakers tipped him off about a near-perfect pizzeria in South London, Jay Rayner immediately booked a table. But could the restaurant deliver?

Matthew Norman:-
Name:- Baslow Hall, Calver Road, Baslow, Derbyshire - Tel: 01246 583259

Review:-
The main course was also a triumph, three cuts of local pig - luxuriantly fatty caramelised belly, sweet and tender roast fillet, and lustrously flavoured braised cheek - coming with a medley of crunchy vegetables (carrots, asparagus and pak choi) in a fine, strong red-wine gravy infused with rosemary. - 9/10

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